[Rhodes22-list] I JUST GOT A 1976 RHODES 22

[Steve Alm]

Todd,

Your drawings and diagrams are always great.  What program do you use to
create them?

Slim

On 11/25/04 12:09 AM, "Todd Tavares" <sprocket80 at mail.com> wrote:

> Hank, 
> 
>     I don't know if you read the e-mail I sent to the Rhodes list in response
> to your first request for help determining the structural layout of the R 22
> interior. I attached a couple of drawings and have a couple more with this
> e-mail. 
> 
>      First of all, it looked as if there was standing water in the cabin. You
> need to get that out and allow the hull to dry out good.  I would try to get
> rid of that OSB chip board and go with marine grade plywood.  It costs quite a
> bit but the quality is much better,  There are no voids and the plys are
> bonded with non-water soluable glue.  I would still follow Roger's suggestion
> to give the structural members a coating of two of epoxy first.
>      In the first drawings, I left out two stringers, (#5 and #6 in my latest
> drawing) which are really cleats, and are glassed to the stringers (#1 and #2)
> These stringers/cleats support the edges of the cabin floor and allow the
> floor to be secured with screws.
> 
>     Since your interior is gutted, you can make up your own interior design 
> if you like....BUT you definitely need to add a mast compression post!! It
> appears in your photos there are holes and marks on the ceiling so it won't be
> difficult to locate the correct position.
> 
>     If you have never done fiberglass work, I would suggest buying an
> instructional video or go to the website for:
> http://www.westsystem.com/  and 
> http://www.boater.com/repinfo/westsys/west4.html
> 
> Both sites have a ton of info. I highly recommend buying a video...but at the
> very least buy a copy of gudgeon brothers manual #002-550 "Fiberglass Boat
> Repair & Maintenance". I got this manual free at a local boat store.
> 
> Todd Tavares 
>