[Rhodes22-list] Bottom Paint

daniel snyder danielsnyder at adelphia.net
Sun Nov 27 09:23:11 EST 2005


Bill,

Thank you.  Stan was waiting to hear from me on what direction to go with 
this.  Sounds like a good solution.  Glad to hear of your experience.

Dan Snyder

Dan Snyder
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Effros" <bill at effros.com>
To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2005 4:53 AM
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bottom Paint


> Dan,
>
> I'm using Pettit Trinidad SR because Practical Sailor tests bottom paints 
> in my harbor, and this paint was the best in my harbor.  When they test in 
> other harbors, different paints work better.  That's the local knowledge 
> thing.
>
> In figuring out what I was using, I set off the "Uh-oh" light.  Here is 
> the blurb from some web site:
>
> This new version of Trinidad has a specially formulated algicide that 
> makes it slime resistant. The high loading of cuprous oxide combined with 
> the algicide gives this paint unprecedented resistance to barnacles, 
> algae, slime and other marine and freshwater fouling organisms. Excellent 
> performance even in the most torrid, tropical fouling conditions.
>
> This hard, protective paint produces the most durable finish for 
> long-lasting performance that's easy to burnish. Can be applied over most 
> hard antifouling coatings. Remove old soft antifouling paint before 
> applying. Excellent adhesion to fiberglass, wood and steel hulls. Perfect 
> for both power and sailboats.
>
> Compatible with all properly prepared hard bottom paints. Safe for 
> overcoating without fear of lifting. Apply two coats with brush, roller, 
> or spray. Do not apply on aluminum.Ê
>
> NOTE: Cannot be sold or used in CA
>
> Note the "Cannot be sold or used in CA" -- this is often the beginning of 
> the end for biocides that work too well.
>
> With regard to application, as noted previously, I just ignore their 
> recommendations.  I slap on a single new coat every year.  I don't have a 
> cigarette boat that goes 150 miles per hour through the water.  On my boat 
> we give high fives when we hit 7 knots.  The water ablates less than 1 
> coat of paint in most places per year.  The high spots get worn down 
> first.  New biocide is constantly being exposed, and it is effective 
> against both hard and soft stuff in my local waters.
>
> I have always used expensive ablating paint on my R-22.  The SR -- slime 
> resistant formula was added, and improved the paint with regard to soft 
> stuff.  I think that is the green stuff, and you can see it while you mix, 
> even in the black paint.  For my money, the expensive paint is worth it. 
> It goes on easily over just about anything, and it works.
>
> Bill Effros
>
>
> daniel snyder wrote:
>
>> Bill,   You mention a great bottom paint that has a green tinge and that 
>> you use a Black Bottom paint.  Do you have the manufacturer's or brand 
>> name? Thanks.
>>
>> Dan Snyder
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Effros" <bill at effros.com>
>> To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Sent: Saturday, November 26, 2005 8:42 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bottom Paint
>>
>>
>>> Daniel,
>>>
>>> Don't remember how many answers you got to this.  When I day sailed in
>>> Long Island Sound I just waxed the bottom of my boat, and hosed it down
>>> when I took it out.  This worked fine.
>>>
>>> But one day I left it in the water for 3 days, and the bottom was never
>>> the same again.
>>>
>>> After the EPA forced us to change from bottom paint that killed
>>> everything within a 15 foot radius of the boat to kinder, gentler bottom
>>> paint, nothing worked for a while.  It was a joke.  But over the years
>>> the paint companies have developed bottom paint that works better than
>>> it ever did before.
>>>
>>> The earlier good stuff killed the hard things until it got overwhelmed
>>> by slime in some environments at which point it stopped sloughing off
>>> paint layers to expose new biocide, and the build up began.
>>>
>>> Now they have developed great bottom paint that allows me to take the
>>> boat out of the water with the bottom in exactly the same condition it
>>> was when I put it in, 6 months earlier.  The paint has a green tinge.  I
>>> think this is because the algicide has a green color, and I don't think
>>> it is stuff that is growing, although it would be easy to think that's
>>> what it is.  I use Black Bottom paint because it hides the green tinge
>>> the best.
>>>
>>> The paint is designed to ablate.  You can knock it all off with a
>>> pressure washer if you choose to do so.  Nothing will grow where you do
>>> this for a while.  As mentioned earlier, I just slap on new stuff every
>>> year, and let the water smooth out my paint job for me.  I don't sand.
>>> I don't prep. I only have to pressure wash above the water line, and on
>>> lines that trail in the water if I don't plan to replace them (think
>>> rudder lines).
>>>
>>> Bill Effros
>>>
>>> daniel snyder wrote:
>>>
>>>> Bob K.
>>>>
>>>> My new Rhodes, due in May, will mostly stay on it's mooring ball from 
>>>> May thru Oct. here on a fresh water lake in NH.  The water is extremely 
>>>> clear, although there is always an amazing amount of algae and slime 
>>>> buildup below the waterline...which if allowed to dry after hauling is 
>>>> a real chore to get off.  I have a pretty red West Wight Potter and was 
>>>> surprised to see the level of fading that hit the red color below the 
>>>> waterline after scrubbing off the scum in October.
>>>>
>>>> I'm trying to determine with Stan what, if any, bottom paint might be 
>>>> applied.  Stan says check with the locals.  I did and the answer is 
>>>> nothing. My new Rhodes will have a red hull also, and I'd sure hate to 
>>>> see the color fade like the Potter.  So, I would like to minimize the 
>>>> slime build up if possible.   You mentioned the use of Petit Trinidad 
>>>> and that you are moving to a saltwater environment....was this bottom 
>>>> paint used for fresh water? If so, how did it help?  Thanks
>>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Keller" 
>>>> <r22yankeeclipper at hotmail.com>
>>>> To: <rhodes-list at sailnet.net>; <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>> Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 9:33 PM
>>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bottom Paint
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Just brought Yankee Clipper to the marina (Big Water Marina) for a 
>>>>> bottom job - it's been 4 years since Stan used Petit Trinidad on the 
>>>>> bottom and it held up very well.  The bottom looked great when I 
>>>>> pulled the boat. I'm getting a "salt water" bottom job since I will be 
>>>>> moving to Savannah, GA next spring/summer.  So, what should I do with 
>>>>> the bottom?  I called the marina in Savannah and they recommended that 
>>>>> I go with an ablative paint instead of hard paint like Trinidad.  They 
>>>>> use and recommended a sanding job and then two coats of Petit Ultima 
>>>>> Pro (with biocide).  This can supposedly only be bought by boat yards, 
>>>>> but the Petit Ultima is likely not much different.  High copper 
>>>>> contect and biocide and using ablative paint will prevent build-up of 
>>>>> bottom paint that will eventually have to be dealt with. They said a 
>>>>> sanding and two new coats every 12-18 months does the trck on the 
>>>>> coast.
>>>>>
>>>>> Just wanted to share this with the list and see if anyone has any 
>>>>> similar experiences.
>>>>>
>>>>> Regards,
>>>>> Bob K
>>>>> s/v Yankee Clipper
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> __________________________________________________
>>>>> Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> __________________________________________________
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>>>
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>>
>>
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