[Rhodes22-list] Hunting

[andrew collins]

Bill- Your lengthening/geometry description is right. Elton and I also had a
similar coversation at the time, it was indeed high tide. In the meantime
observations from the last several days at various tide levels show the boat
to be lively but secure.

During the windy days the boat was swinging back and forth over an adjacent
vacant mooring, which of course wasn't stretched out due the lack of a boat
pulling on it. This bothers me only in that the motor has to be off before
getting close to avoid snagging the line. The Mercury has no real neutral
point, or it is too small to hit with the throttle control. The adjacent
mooring is only a float and not a ball so it shouldn't affect the paint. Of
course, if we miss the pick-up stick we have to get some distance and
re-start.

Such is life at Grass Island

Andrew

On 5/25/06, Bill Effros <bill at effros.com> wrote:
>
> Andrew,
>
> Justin knows what he's doing.
>
> There can be a 9 foot tidal variation around here.  If you and Elton
> tied up at High Tide (which you probably did because that's the best
> time to launch the boat) and low wind, the mooring line can seem very
> short.  Justin uses monster sized chain which will drop straight to the
> bottom when there's little windage on your boat.  In high tide, low
> wind, the first 9 feet of mooring line will follow the chain to the
> bottom, so you will seem to be very close to the mooring ball.
>
> But if there's a strong blow, the wind will push your boat back, and
> stretch both the chain and the mooring line 15 to 18 feet back from your
> apparent location at high tide/low wind.  This will give you excellent
> scope on your huge mushroom anchor which is buried in the mud.
>
> The only thing you have to watch for is your chain wrapping around the
> stem of the mushroom anchor.  Dive on it, or maneuver your boat directly
> above and unwind it if it is wound.  Do this at low tide when you can
> see what's going on, and get leverage above the anchor.
>
> The mooring ball, before you regularly have your boat on it, can blow in
> such a way that it wraps the chain around the stem.  This doesn't tend
> to happen once you regularly attach you boat to the ball--even if the
> boat hunts a lot.
>
> Bill Effros
>
> andrew collins wrote:
> > Bill & Bruce -
> >
> > After more observation it seems that a small planing v-hull motor boat
> > nearby has very similar behavior. The R22 hull per GBI brochure is a
> > semi-displacement hull, whatever that means. The motor boat has similar
> > hull, but more windage due to the cabin.
> > The deep keel on the bigger sails seems like the stabilizer here.
> > Yesterday
> > evening was clamer, but as we all know, contrary to what the marine
> > contractors tell you,  the boats in the mooring field were not all
> > lined up
> > in the same direction.
> >
> > The winds at the mooring are definitely influenced by the nearby
> > upwind tree
> > ( the wind was out of the NW these last days), nearby buildings, the
> > point
> > itself, etc. creating turbulence. The mooring was put in by Justin of
> Old
> > Greenwich Marine
> >
> > Upon mooring the boat for the first time Elton and I both felt the
> > pendant
> > to be too short. There is also a heavy loop off of the mooring ball to
> > which
> > I tied the slack line leading to the bow eye. It is independent of the
> > pendant. Bruce is this what you call the bridle? It does look like one.
> >
> > Per Bill's advice I will:
> >
> > First try number 2, observe the results, and then try number 1 by
> > switching
> > the slack line to the center cleat, and put the pendant on the bow eye
> > with
> > a snap shackle. Should a thimble be in the pendant eye?
> >
> > A science experiment!
> >
> > Andrew
> >
> >
> > On 5/25/06, Bill Effros <bill at effros.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Andrew,
> >>
> >> I haven't tried this, because I come from the "If it ain't broke, don't
> >> fix it" school, but I believe there are 2 things you might try to
> lessen
> >> hunting:
> >>
> >> 1.  Moor from your bow eye instead of your bow cleat.  (Put a slack
> back
> >> up on the bow cleat.)
> >>
> >> 2.  Loop a line from the bow cleat, over the port side, through your
> >> mooring line eye, and back over the bow cleat from the starboard side.
> >> They recommend this for bare boats in the BVI to lessen hunting, and
> >> reduce chafing.
> >>
> >> Chafing has been a zero problem for me over the 8 years my Rhodes has
> >> been on a mooring in Greenwich Cove.
> >>
> >> I have a chafe guard over my mooring line where it rubs on the rub
> >> rail.  I have never even thought about replacing the chafe guard
> because
> >> it does not chafe.
> >>
> >> I spend a lot of time on my mooring in my boat, and it does not hunt
> >> very much.  Sometimes on anchor it hunts much more.  Part of it is
> where
> >> your boat happens to be.
> >>
> >> Bill Effros
> >>
> >>
> >> R22RumRunner at aol.com wrote:
> >> > Andrew,
> >> > It's what is called hunting as others have stated. It is a common
> >> trait  with
> >> > the R22 on a mooring. It's caused by a combination of things inherent
> >> with
> >> > the R22 design, not a flaw.
> >> > I don't know of any sure cure for this.
> >> >
> >> > Rummy
> >> > __________________________________________________
> >> > Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/li
> >> >
> >> __________________________________________________
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> >>
> >
> >
> >
> __________________________________________________
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>



-- 
Andrew