[Rhodes22-list] Electrical Advice

Dana realnamen at yahoo.com
Tue Jul 22 11:22:04 EDT 2008


My multimeter will measure current.  I think it is called a "multi" meter because it will measure multiple things (voltage, resistance, current).  You are right that the meter must be inserted in series.  It has its own internal shunt.

--- On Tue, 7/22/08, Hank <hnw555 at gmail.com> wrote:
From: Hank <hnw555 at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Electrical Advice
To: "The Rhodes 22 Email List" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Date: Tuesday, July 22, 2008, 3:01 PM

Dana,

A multimeter will not usually measure current, which is amperage.  If it
can, then you must disconnect the wires and run the multimeter in line for
it to read current.  Usually you need to by a ampmeter which is capable of
reading the amperage draw by putting its sensors around the desired circuit..

Hank


On 7/22/08, Dana <realnamen at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> I would get a multimeter and measure the current in the circuit.  That
will
> tell you if the breaker is tripping prematurely.  My guess is the breaker
is
> old and malfunctioning.
>
> --- On Tue, 7/22/08, Tootle <ekroposki at charter.net> wrote:
> From: Tootle <ekroposki at charter.net>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list]  Electrical Advice
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Date: Tuesday, July 22, 2008, 2:36 PM
>
> Lee said, "I assume I have too many lights connected to one
breaker."
> If
> there are no other issues that is the most logical reason.
>
> However, could there be other reasons.  Breaker tripping means load not
> open.  Just recently we had big discussion of wattage of bulbs.  So, could
> some of your bulbs be of higher wattage than should be?  Someone wanted
> brighter lights?  Even some of Stan's workers could make that error.
>
> Are the bulb sockets clean and free of corrosion?  Dirty and corroded
> sockets could increase current draw.
>
> So you have on available breaker socket?  Why not get one new breaker and
> put part of load on it, if it can be wired.  Since you are dealing with DC
> current they may have it wired daisey chain with no way of spitting
circuit
> in two.  But I would look to do this, even if you find high wattage bulbs,
> because you are evidentially happy with the light provided.
>
> Another option would be to replace some of the bulbs with low draw
LED's.
> But that is another whole topic.
>
> Political Statement:  As to being an Obama hater, I just expect the
highest
> standards from elected officials and as such he should be forthright about
> his political philosophy.  He partially does that when he states that he
is
> a progressive, but how many understand that to mean Marxist?
>
> Ed K
> Greenville, SC, USA
> http://www.nabble.com/file/p18589417/After%2Belection....jpg
> After+election....jpg
>
>
> Leland wrote:
> >
> > Finally spent my first night on the boat last Thursday.  Departed
Kent
> > Island a little after 7:00 p.m. and dropped anchor near Annapolis
seven
> > hours later.  Conditions couldn't have been better.  The full
moon lit
> up
> > the Chesapeake and the winds kept us cool and moving along at about
an
> > average of three knots.  Didn't need the motor except for getting
in
> and
> > out of the marina and anchorage, but 7 hours x 3 knots = 21 miles for
> > about a 15 mile trip.  I can understand why sailboat cruisers motor
60%
> of
> > the time.
> >
> > Did run into one small problem.  The breaker for the running lights
kept
> > switching off.  I assume I have too many lights connected to one
breaker,
> > but I'd love to hear some other theories and solutions. 
Here's
> how my
> > panel is configured:
> >
> > 1.  Mast Head Light (only for the light on the mast)
> >
> > 2.  Running Lights - this is the only one that kept breaking off
(stern
> > light, red port light, green starboard light, compass light)
> >
> > 3.  Cabin Lights (two sets of double lights found on most Rhodes and
a
> > reading light over the settee) - seems like this would draw more
power
> > than the running lights
> >
> > 4.  12 VDC Outlets (12 volt receptacles)
> >
> > 5.  Instruments (only for the depth/fish finder)
> >
> > 6.  Spare (no switch)
> >
> > 7.  AC Main Shore (110 receptacle)
> >
> > Any advice is appreciated--thanks!
> >
> > Lee
> > 1986 Rhodes22  At Ease
> > Kent Island, MD
> >
> http://www.nabble.com/file/p18589417/After%2Belection....jpg
> After+election....jpg
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://www.nabble.com/Electrical-Advice-tp18588203p18589417.html
> Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>
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