[Rhodes22-list] main cockpit drain and laz bulkhead

Hank hnw555 at gmail.com
Wed May 28 08:56:39 EDT 2008


Peter,

My laz regularly filled with water from rain due to the small drains on the
seats being clogged.  I performed the switch to 1 1/4" drains and hoses and
now stay pretty dry with occasionally having to sponge out a little from the
main cabin.  Still haven't figured out where that is coming, but it is so
little that I am not real worried about it.  We had rains a couple of weeks
ago that totaled more than 6" in just a few days and I had maybe a gallon of
water in the bilge.  To me, that is no longer an issue.

Hank


On 5/28/08, Peter Thorn <pthorn at nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> Water from a cockpit drain leak can only rise to the waterline and cannot
> now go forward to fill the much larger volume of the cabin.  Isn't that
> safer?  I suppose rain water, if it could somehow get into the laz
> compartment, could fill to the top of the bulkhead, the "flood level rim"
> of
> the laz, before draining to the cockpit.
>
> But you make an interesting point.  Perhaps lower drain holes under the
> seats to lower the flood level rim and drain rainwater to the cockpit could
> relieve that possibility, or an open Y-valve installed above the waterline
> on the cockpit drain pipe in the laz could drain excess laz rainwater into
> the river.
>
> The laz will only fill with rainwater if the seat drains fail or clog with
> debris.  It's probably a good idea to perform Stan's state-of-the art R22
> seat drain improvement to 1 1/4" drains to reduce the possibility of that
> clogging.
>
> Glad to have you back on the list!
>
> PT
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Bill Effros
> Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 8:09 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 mail list
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] main cockpit drain and laz bulkhead
>
> Peter,
>
> I always saw the unsealed laz as a safety feature built in by Stan.  I
> thought he did it on purpose, and I use it to intentionally drain water
> to the laz where it is easier to dispose of.
>
> If your huge sealed laz fills with water it will raise the bow as the
> sealed rear compartment fills--like the Titanic in reverse.  The boat
> won't sink because of the floatation, but instead of remaining level and
> distributing the water over the length of the hull, you are
> concentrating all the weight at one end.
>
> Bill Effros
>
>
>
> Peter Thorn wrote:
> > Mike,
> >
> > I just want to share a bit of information about the lazarette on my '88
> R22,
> > s/v Raven.  Last year I discovered that the laz was not sealed to the
> > floatation area under the cockpit floor and that water in the laz would
> run
> > forward, under the cockpit foam floatation, and wind up in the bilge near
> > the inspection square by the compression post.  With this bit of data
> also
> > came the epiphany that an unattended failure of the main cockpit drain
> could
> > result in an all-out test of the unsinkable characteristics of the Rhodes
> > 22.   Since I am the worrying type, this seemed unacceptable, so I
> devised
> a
> > solution.
> >
> > I glassed in and sealed the laz bulkhead to the floor and sides of the
> hull
> > to create a watertight compartment.  The top of the laz bulkhead, as most
> > owners know, is open to the cockpit, so if the water level in the laz
> were
> > to rise to the top of the bulkhead (unlikely I think), it would spill out
> > and drain through the cockpit drain.  Now no water from the laz can enter
> > the cabin.  If a total failure of the cockpit drain occurs, the laz and
> only
> > the laz would fill up to the water line, but not run forward to swamp the
> > boat.
> >
> > I've attached pictures of the laz sealing project done with WEST epoxy,
> > glass cloth and roving over a foam angle filler, per instructions from
> the
> > technical advisors at WEST.  Good luck with yours!
> >
> > PT
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> > [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Michael D.
> Weisner
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 5:37 PM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 mail list
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] NEWS ITEM *****FLASH***** Shanghai'd
> > SummerFinallyLaunched May 25!!
> >
> > Rob,
> >
> > If I pull her to do repairs, I must completely pack up and bring her home
> -
> > there is no overnight parking at the town ramp area.  While it is only 2
> > miles journey, it seems so unnecessary.  I was thinking of finding a
> rubber
> > gasket for the through-hull that would hold until the end of the season
> when
> >
> > I would rebed properly.  If I pull out, I would prefer to make the repair
> > and relaunch immediately.  We only have a window of about an hour or so
> for
> > the entire operation due to the tide changes (7-8 ft).  I need all the
> water
> >
> > I can get under the hull to recover and a bit less to launch.
> >
> > Mike
> > s/v Shanghai'd Summer ('81)
> > Nissequogue River, NY
> >
> > From: "Rob Lowe" <rlowe at vt.edu>Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 5:29 PM
> >
> >> Mike,
> >> Congratulations to being (back?) on the water!  As far as
> >> replacing/rebeding
> >> your through-hull, is there any way to pull the boat while still rigged
> >> and
> >> leave it on the trailer overnight and then relaunch in a day or two?
> >> Would
> >> certainly make working on a through-hull easier if you're out of the
> >> water. - rob
> >>
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Michael D. Weisner" <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> >> To: "Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 3:48 PM
> >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] NEWS ITEM *****FLASH***** Shanghai'd Summer
> >> FinallyLaunched May 25!!
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>> On Friday I picked up the 2-1/2" square 1/4" thick steel tube stock
> that
> >>>
> >> is now the new extension tongue for my R22 trailer.  After fitting a new
> >> coupler and drilling many holes in the steel on Saturday, I pronounced
> the
> >> trailer "launchable" once again.  Sunday morning I removed the winter
> tarp
> >> and checked out the boat.  All was as I had left it last September when
> we
> >> failed to launch due to a collapsed extension tongue at the ramp.  I
> >> purchased fresh gas and oil, ran the old Suzuki DT7.5 engine in a
> garbage
> >> can (started on 2nd pull!) and hitched up.
> >>
> >>> We launched without incident.  Once I was happy that there were no
> major
> >>>
> >> leaks or problems, I parked the truck and trailer.  We motored over to
> our
> >> mooring to get away from the busy ramp area.  Once safely anchored, we
> >> stepped the mast and rigged.  We went for a short sail (2 hours) and
> came
> >> back in to discharge passengers (helpers) and clean up.
> >>
> >>> I noticed that we had a bit of water in the laz.  We pumped out about a
> >>>
> >> half gallon, total.  We had been in the water for only four hours.  Oh
> >> well,
> >> she hadn't seen water in several years (I think 3 years of repairs and
> >> restoration), maybe some seals had shrunk and would swell when wet.
> >> Reluctantly, I boarded the dinghy and made for land, dinner and some
> well
> >> deserved rest.
> >>
> >>> The next morning, Sheryl and I went back out and were pleasantly
> >>> surprised
> >>>
> >> that only about a half gallon of water was present in the laz.  The
> >> forward
> >> bilge remained dry.
> >>
> >>> I mopped up the water and found the leak to be coming from the cockpit
> >>>
> >> drain through-hull fitting.  I had suspected this and brought along a
> >> wrench.  It was fairly loose so I tightened it securely and the flow is
> >> pretty nearly stopped.  I am afraid to put too much torque on the nut
> >> since
> >> it and the fitting are from 1980 and failure would be catastrophic.  I
> >> assume that the sealant (gasket, bedding, etc.) has deteriorated
> >> significantly over the years.  At this time, I am afraid to play with it
> >> any
> >> more than I have until she is safely on the trailer.
> >>
> >>> Has anyone had experience with rebedding or replacing the drain
> >>>
> >> through-hull fitting while in the water?  Is there a safe method of
> >> beaching
> >> to access the area below the cockpit drain?  I think that when I service
> >> it,
> >> I will replace the fitting, the hose and the clamps just to be safe.
> Does
> >> anyone know the size of the fitting, the hose and the clamps (you
> needn't
> >> run out and measure them - I will measure mine in the next day)?
> >>
> >>> Is there a way to seal the fitting (temporarily) without removing the
> >>>
> >> fitting, so that it may be done while in the water?  I was thinking
> about
> >> using some duck-seal or similar putty or caulk.
> >>
> >>> Somehow, while I was rebedding all of the portlights, deck fittings,
> the
> >>>
> >> seat drains, etc. I forgot about the cockpit drain.  Word to the wise,
> on
>
> >> a
> >> 25+ year old boat, service and rebed everything, especially the fittings
> >> below the water line.
> >>
> >>> Thanks to all on the list who provided information and links to
> >>>
> >> information that helped me learn the art of fiberglass repair.  Probably
> >> the
> >> best information I received was to purchase Don Casey's books - I now
> have
> >> the entire set, I think.
> >>
> >>> Even with the slight leak, it is much better to be in the water and
> >>>
> >> sailing, finally ...
> >>
> >>> Mike
> >>> s/v Shanghai'd Summer ('81)
> >>> Nissequogue River, NY
> >>> __________________________________________________
> >>> Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
> >>>
> >> __________________________________________________
> >> Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
> >
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