[Rhodes22-list] Blue Heron gets beaded

Blue Heron sloopblueheron at gmail.com
Thu Feb 5 21:00:18 EST 2009


Wally,

I have a friend who has the beading on his gunnels which are broad and good
for sitting like the R22.  As long as bare leg skin isn't in contact with
the beads, it is no different than sitting on smooth paint.  But you just
can't slide around which is often what you want to do when sitting on the
gunnels.

As for my gunnels, they will paint an 8 inch patch of beading just forward
of the winch bases for boarding safety.

I'm thinking that if anyone does sit on the cockpit seat beading, the seats
are too low for their bare legs to come in contact with the beading anyway.
The only risk is someone may sit on the seat wearing a bikini.  On the other
hand, I haven't had much luck attracting bikinis on my boat lately, so that
risk may be worth taking.

Rick

On Wed, Feb 4, 2009 at 7:42 AM, TN Rhodey <tnrhodey at gmail.com> wrote:

> Mike, Your repair looks good. The cockpit table support seems to be a
> common
> source of leaks. I had to repair mine several years ago.
>
> Rick, Non skid seats may be a good idea. We always use the cushions or at
> least a throw cushion. Try to find a deck already painted with similar non
> skid and take a seat? Instead of the entire seat maybe just non-skid a
> small
> area to use for stepping aboard? Good luck.
>
> Wally
>
> On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 10:53 PM, Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com
> >wrote:
>
> > Rick,
> >
> > Several years ago I faced a similar problem with the cockpit floor of my
> > '81
> > R22:
> > http://www.nabble.com/leaks-to9963010.html#a9998040
> >
> > The floor had two additional major problems, both responsible for the
> > admission of water.  When the boat was new, we witnessed the development
> of
> > "star burst" patterns of damage in the cockpit floor gelcoat.  They were
> > circular with radial lines extending 3 to 4 inches from the  center.
>  Over
> > the years, water must have entered the glass layers in the floor through
> > these defects to cause the second and more serious problem: the
> separation
> > or delamination of the floor components.  The freeze and thaw cycles of
> the
> > NY winter increased the damage to floor, using the trapped water as a
> > wedge.
> > This became evident when the floor "oil canned" as a large bubble formed
> > beneath the upper layers.  This was compounded by the destruction of the
> > foam below as water continued to pass through the floor, destroying the
> > support system for the cockpit floor.  Eventually, the top layer of the
> > floor cracked and I was able to see into the separated
> > layers directly.
> >
> > I concentrated my efforts on rebuilding the cockpit floor to take the
> > punishment that it gets in normal use.  After drilling holes in the floor
> > to
> > access the internal layers, I spent several months drying out the floor
> > using acetone and fans while keeping water out of the cockpit using
> tarps.
> > I added structural wood supports and plywood to the foam below the
> cockpit.
> > I removed all damaged foam and replaced it.  When the structure below was
> > solid and the floor was dry, I used penetrating epoxy from West Marine to
> > reattach the layers of glass, compressing the floor down using bricks on
> > wax
> > paper.  Once that the epoxy had cured, I filled the holes and any
> > remaining voids using 105/206/407, finishing flush with the gel coat.
> >
> > Because I am not skilled enough with gel coat repairs and wish to prevent
> a
> > similar failure in the future, I finished the cockpit floor with
> > "Treadmaster Original Smooth Pattern" anti-slip deck covering.  It is
> about
> > $150 per 3' x 4' sheet, is 1/8" thick and is secured with water proof
> > adhesive.  This restored the cockpit floor, providing a really
> comfortable
> > (on the feet) polymer surface that absorbs shock well and prevent water
> > from
> > entering the floor.
> >
> > After an entire season of use, I can honestly say that it is the most
> > comfortable cockpit floor that I have ever felt.  The upkeep is easy.
>  The
> > surface is non-skid and soft under foot.  I should have put it in years
> > ago.
> >
> > I attached a photo of the two color flooring installed on my R22 (the
> link
> > is probably at the very bottom of this email.
> >
> > Mike
> > s/v Shanghaid'd Summer ('81)
> >       Nissequogue River, NY
> >
> >
> > From: "Sloop Blue Heron" Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009
> >  > At age 16, Blue Heron is getting her topsides painted over in Awlgrip.
> > > The
> > > yard has removed all the hardware and has begun repairing water
> > > penetration
> > > damage to the core in many places.  The mast step is pretty squishy, so
> > > that
> > > will be rebuilt and re-glassed before painting.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Since the paint will fill in the non-skid patterns in the gelcoat, the
> > > yard
> > > is going to add glass beads to the paint for painting over the existing
> > > non-skid areas.  In addition, they will alter the color of the non-skid
> > so
> > > it is more easily recognized by guests and me during my senior moments.
> > > The
> > > general color will be "off white" and the non-skid will have a little
> red
> > > added in to be "moon" in color-sort of a light tan.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > In the cockpit, only the sole and the lazzerette lid has non-skid now,
> > > which
> > > is handy when messing with the IMF.   The yard suggests painting all
> the
> > > cockpit seating surface as non-skid for boarding safety.  That seems
> like
> > > a
> > > good idea to me because, even during the roughest ride, I use the
> > cushions
> > > all the time.  The glass beads ought to help keep the cushions in
> place,
> > > so
> > > it is unlikely anyone will ever sit on the itchy beads.  Does anyone
> have
> > > any experience with that?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Rick
> > >
> > > __________________________________________________
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