[Rhodes22-list] Jbconnolly

[Mary Lou Troy]

Dave,
We don't have motor controls on the tiller but I 
took a stock tiller cover, opened up the seams 
and added enough length to it so that it would 
cover the entire tiller including where the 
tiller attaches to the rudder. I think if I had 
the motor controls, I'd just buy some sunbrella 
and make a long tube wide enough to go over the 
controls and the cables if they are long enough 
to exit at the base of the tiller. Put a 
drawstring at the end and you are done. You'd 
have to get fancier if you have to leave an 
opening for the cables. I might consider grommets 
and lacing if that's the case. Should be a fairly 
simple project if you know someone with a sewing 
machine. I can sew two layers of sunbrella easily 
on my old Singer Featherweight. Sailrite has lots 
of supplies and info about working with Sunbrella. (http://www.sailrite.com/)

Mary Lou
1991 R22 Fretless
Rock Hall, MD


At 12:19 PM 6/8/2009, you wrote:
>I pulled my tiller out to refinish it this spring and found that there
>was quite a bit of dry rot in the area where the through bolt attaches
>the tiller to the rudder head.  I ordered a new tiller from Stan and
>after drilling sealed the interior surfaces with epoxy.  Adding
>several coats of varnish on top of the factory finish.
>
>My boat stays in the water all winter and it's a pretty rainy climate
>here so I've probably got a worst case scenario for water wicking into
>the tiller through the mast head.  I'm going to figure out a way to
>cover the rudder head and motor controls this time around.  The
>off-the-shelf tiller covers won't work - will require some creative
>trimming of Sunbrella.  Anybody done that?
>
>Dave
>
>
>On Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 8:06 AM, Mary Lou Troy<mtroy at atlanticbb.net> wrote:
> > At 08:59 AM 6/8/2009, Jim wrote:
> >>  For the list: My tiller is a bit "chalky"
> >> looking after five years.  The coating on it
> >> seems very thick, more like an epoxy clear coat
> >> than a varnish.  Has anyone refinished 
> theirs?  If so, with what product?
> >
> > We sanded ours down and varnished it probably 7
> > or 8 years ago. 5 or 6 coats of varnish. sanded
> > between coats. The full brightwork routine. Nice
> > winter project. Used real varnish vs Cetol or the
> > like. We keep it covered with a sunbrella cover
> > when not in use. Looked fabulous when first done
> > and for the first couple of years. Still looks
> > very good though it has a few scratches and dings
> > and probably ought to be redone.
> >
> >>The hinged cabin door is sun-bleached and
> >>blotchy on one side, also.  It is made of two
> >>pieces of ~3/8 plywood with a piano hinge and a
> >>wooden cleat (carpentry cleat, not nautical
> >>cleat) drilled for socket for the leg.  I would
> >>like the plastic door, but $350 is not in this
> >>year's budget.  I may just flip it over, but
> >>would like to refinish it.  Anyone done this,
> >>and with what? I have the black plastic tracks
> >>for the cabin door as well as the white plastic
> >>tracks for the sliding hatch, already.
> >
> > Our hinged door is Starboard. It's heavy but
> > requires no maintenance and looks almost brand
> > new in spite of being casually thrown under the
> > seats whenever we use the boat. The tracks are
> > wood. We have an old quart can of West Marine
> > Teak Treatment (similar to Cetol but  think it
> > was made for them by Armada) that we use on the
> > tracks and on the wood trim in the cockpit. The
> > can was last used two or three years ago (it was
> > used before that and is probably 7 or 8 years
> > old) and it's time to do a light sanding and add
> > another coat. It takes a while to dry (probably
> > because of its age) but it seemed to work ok.
> > We'll see if I can get another use out of it.  We
> > also made a mahogany kickplate for the forward
> > end of the cockpit (holds the centerboard line).
> > It gets the West Teak Treatment as well. We also
> > varnished  (real varnish) the plywood table (that
> > doubles as the cabin bunk filler). It has held up
> > very well and looks great. If anyone tries this
> > be aware that you have to clean it well and sand
> > VERY lightly or you go right through the fake teak pattern.
> >
> > Mary Lou
> > 1991 R22  Fretless
> > Rock Hall, MD
> >
> >
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>
>
>
>--
>David Bradley
>+1.206.234.3977
>dwbrad at gmail.com
>
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