[Rhodes22-list] Owners manual for newer boat Solar panel thoughts, may be

[r22rumrunner at aol.com]

Rod,
What you need is a charge controller. WM sells them. Which one you need  
depends on the output of your solar panels. We installed one a few years ago 
on  Capt. Bob's boat and I haven't heard of any problems since then. They 
control  the charge rate and also prevent discharge during cloudy days.
 
Rummy
 
 
In a message dated 1/10/2010 1:59:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ellner at pressenter.com writes:

Gregg  MacMillan wrote:
> On Jan 9, 2010, at 12:10 PM, Ellner  wrote:
>   
>>  I am looking for a newer version  of the owners manual.
>>      
>
>   

Thanks for your effort. That is what I  was looking for. The manual is 
always a good read, especially during the  off season  There are a few 
differences from the 1988  version.   I plan on changing to the "vertical 
cam cleat" on the  main out haul line on the boom.  On my boat has the 
main furling line  secures to the small cleats on the bottom of the 
boom.  I have  considered a cam or clam cleat.  How are  the newer boats  
rigged?  

I would like to read the owners manual for the solar  panels if there is 
one.   As I understand it one panel goes  directly to #1 battery (front 
battery)  and the other  goes to  the rear battery.#2.   I also have a 
battery selector switch;  position choices. off, both, #1, #2.  I am 
thinking to save one  battery from the other battery going bad (ie.not 
holding a charge)one  should turn the battery switch to off when not 
using the boat.   Otherwise  one panel would be charging battery A and 
the other panel  would be charging battery B but if the selector switch 
is in the "both"  position the bad battery would be drawing off the good 
battery leaving  both batteries discharged.  Does that sound reasonable?
If the  selector switch is  at #1 OR #2 OR off position the good battery  
would accept and hold a charge and the bad battery would not. In that  
case the "good battery' would have and hold a charge and the "bad  
battery" might take a charge, or not, and not hold a charge.  My  
situation is; My outboard is a manual start so a starting battery is not  
needed.  I have two gp 27 deep cycle batteries on boat. One was new  and 
the other was an older battery.  Typically I did not turn the  battery 
selector to the "off" position. At one  time I had turned the  selector  
to "off" when I left the boat.  The next time I was on  the boat I 
thought I had a total power failure. Much later in my search  for the 
problem I turned the switch to another position other than off.  Who 
would have ever thought ...!!    

The first sign  I  noticed I was having battery problems was when early 
in the  morning while getting the boat ready to leave the mooring  I 
would  turn the marine radio and the GPS/fish finder on.  Either they 
would  not work or the gps would give me a low battery alert.  I would 
turn  them both off and go sailing.  Later one or both would work.  I  
think at that time the sun had gotten high enough to produce enough  
power to run one or both of them. I don't thing either of them have much  
of an electrical draw.  The batteries may accept a charge but  probably 
would not hold a charge for long.  

What I did  wrong.    I should not have mixed a new battery with an 
older  one.  I should have turned the battery switch to "off" when not on  
the boat. That would have isolated the "bad" battery sooner.  Instead  of 
thinking I had a bad battery I was thinking the solar panels were  
drawing off  the battery charge at night. That would not be possible  
because of the diodes.  What I did  
right.................................I am still thinking!!

To make  a long story short.. too late for that. Whew.   Does anyone have  
any thoughts on this situation?    I have a bad case of cabin  fever. 

Thanks

Rod Ellner
Toy Blew  1987/2009



> I'm pretty sure this is the most current  version:
>
> http://files.me.com/macmillan/jcolub
>
>  --Gregg
>
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