[Rhodes22-list] Pictures and details

Tue Oct 26 12:17:42 EDT 2010

I haven't found it necessary.  The original hose was fairly thick walled, 
probably what we in NY call "winter weight" (meaning that it can be exposed 
to sub-freezing temperatures without damage.)  Remember, when my '81 R22 was 
built (1980), Stan still lived in Amityville, NY.

Mike
s/v Shanghai'd Summer ('81)
Nissequogue River, NY

From: "jefkan" Tuesday, October 26, 2010 11:58 AM
>
> I was wondering if slipping some fuel line inside the garden hose cut to a
> longer length might provide some shock absorption while maintaining
> stiffness?
>
>
> R22MikeW wrote:
>>
>> Hi Bill,
>>
>> It may be interesting to note that this is a problem that was addressed 
>> by
>> Stan in the original design of the centerboard.  Probably before yours 
>> was
>> modified by a previous owner, the lift points on the centerboard were not
>> fancy blocks but rather fixed stainless tubes between pieces of medium
>> duty
>> stainless plates that were attached to the board (through bolted pairs of
>> plates.)  The plates were probably Dwyer DH 72-5 Shroud Tangs (5" x 1" x
>> 5/64").  Nothing rolled but the line slid on the fixed tubes well.  Due 
>> to
>> the duty cycle, abrasion was not an issue.  I never worry about the block
>> being off-center and hitting the cap or jamming since it is fixed.
>>
>> I wish I had a photo.
>>
>> Mike
>> s/v Shanghai'd Summer ('81)
>> Nissequogue River, NY
>>
>> From: "BillyDoc" Sunday, October 24, 2010 2:31 PM
>>>
>>> Ouch! I wish I had thought of that before putting in those fifty bolts.
>>> You
>>> are exactly right, of course.  The next time I have it apart I will
>>> definitely de-articulate the blocks with some epoxy putty.
>>>
>>> Thanks for pointing that little problem out!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Geankoplis wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi Bill,
>>>> Nicely done.  Well engineered, well thought out and great detailed
>>>> information on materials.  There is one concern.  Having owned a couple
>>>> of
>>>> Rhodes for  pretty much the last 34 years there is a potential problem
>>>> that
>>>> I ran into. This involved an articulated rather than a fixed block.  On
>>>> the
>>>> off chance you run aground the articulated block without the tension of
>>>> the
>>>> pennant will flop sideways and will probably jamb in the centerboard
>>>> trunk
>>>> or without the plates simply  break off a bit of the trailing 
>>>> fiberglass
>>>> edge of the centerboard. It happened to me twice before I figured it
>>>> out.
>>>> Next time you go into the centerboard you may consider fixing the 
>>>> blocks
>>>> so
>>>> they can't move left or right, er, port and starboard matey.  Hope this
>>>> helps.
>>>> Chris Geankoplis
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
>>>> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of BillyDoc
>>>> Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2010 8:53 AM
>>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
>>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pictures and details
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I got the centerboard back in the boat yesterday, but still have the
>>>> furniture to install today.  I just wanted to get this post up ASAP 
>>>> with
>>>> some pictures, in case they may help someone.
>>>>
>>>> When I pulled the centerboard I discovered that the blocks on the
>>>> trailing
>>>> edge had pulled out at some previous time and been re-installed roughly
>>>> an
>>>> inch lower.  The blocks used were not of the best quality, and I didn't
>>>> like
>>>> the installation method very much either (number 8 SS bolt with locking
>>>> nut,
>>>> about 1/4" from edge) as it looked like it would eventually pull out as
>>>> well.  So I fabricated a set of strain plates and installed them on
>>>> either
>>>> side of the centerboard using eight 1/2" #6 stainless sheet-metal 
>>>> screws
>>>> each side.  The plates were fabricated from 316 Stainless, and are
>>>> 0.030"
>>>> thick.  The plates were drilled with 1/4" holes to accept 1/4" x 1/2"
>>>> clevis
>>>> pins for the upgraded blocks shown in the picture:
>>>> http://PoiesisResearch.com/Plates.png.  The older damaged areas were
>>>> then
>>>> filled in with epoxy putty and sanded smooth.
>>>>
>>>> I also wanted to reduce the vertical axis rotational slop at the
>>>> centerboard
>>>> pin, so I fabricated the pin shown in the picture (in Anne's hand, also
>>>> 316
>>>> stainless steel) with bearing sleeves made from UHMW-PE as shown. 
>>>> These
>>>> bearings are set on shoulders machined into the pin and are 1/2" long
>>>> axially.  The shoulders were polished to make a hard bearing surface,
>>>> and
>>>> the external diameter of the bearings forms a snug but not tight fit at
>>>> the
>>>> bottom of the centerboard trunk slot.  The centerboard is free to slide
>>>> laterally on the pin.
>>>>
>>>> After measuring my slots, etc., I thought a slightly larger than 5/8"
>>>> I.D.
>>>> hose could be used without binding anything and went shopping at my
>>>> local
>>>> rubber goods supplier's shop.  I found a Goodyear product (HORIZON tm
>>>> 3/4"
>>>> (19.1 mm) 200 PSI W.P) with an external diameter of about 1.125" that
>>>> looked
>>>> good and bought a couple of feet of it to try.  My slots are tapered
>>>> both
>>>> fore and aft and laterally, so this hose is tighter near the pivot pin
>>>> than
>>>> higher up, which is a nice design feature as it will keep the board
>>>> centered
>>>> in the trunk while the resistance to lateral movement will increase as
>>>> the
>>>> lateral movement traveling arc increases the contact area in the 
>>>> tapered
>>>> area.
>>>>
>>>> Two pieces of hose were cut just long enough so the bottoms touched the
>>>> UHMW-PE bearings, and the tops become constrained when the centerboard
>>>> trunk
>>>> cap is put back in place.  Picture here:
>>>> http://PoiesisResearch.com/Hoses.png.  The hoses were simply jammed 
>>>> into
>>>> the
>>>> slots from above.
>>>>
>>>> We won't get a chance to try this system out this weekend, and since 
>>>> the
>>>> boat is on a trailer I can't check the play of the centerboard until we
>>>> get
>>>> it back in the water . . . hopefully next weekend.  If I didn't
>>>> inadvertently tangle up the pendant inside the trunk or leave areas
>>>> unsealed
>>>> on the trunk cap I expect the "new" system to work well!  I'll post
>>>> results
>>>> after we get some testing done, hopefully next weekend.
>>>>
>>>> Bill
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -- 
>>>> View this message in context:
>>>> http://old.nabble.com/Loose-centerboard-tp30013496p30041780.html
>>>> Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>>>>
>>>>
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>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> View this message in context:
>>> http://old.nabble.com/Loose-centerboard-tp30013496p30042541.html
>>> Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>>>
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>>> go
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>>
>> __________________________________________________
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>>
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>> __________________________________________________
>>
>>
>
> -- 
> View this message in context: 
> http://old.nabble.com/Loose-centerboard-tp30013496p30059002.html
> Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to 
> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go 
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
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