[Rhodes22-list] Center Board leak

Graham Stewart gstewart8 at cogeco.ca
Sat Sep 28 21:23:15 EDT 2013


Richard:

How frustrating this must be for you. I faced the same problem of launching
my boat twice only to find that my "solutions" to forming a cap-housing join
were inadequate.  Based on that experience I would expect that just applying
gel coat to one surface would likely create a smooth but  irregular surface
that might not match the other surface sufficiently for the neoprene to
adequately seal the join.

It seems to me that both surfaces need to be either perfectly flat or
matched so that slight undulations in one surface are matched with the same
slight variations on the other. Of course it is never "perfect" but that is
where the neoprene should compensate. 

When I was faced with this problem both surfaces were badly damaged while
removing the cap and indeed the cap was broken in two pieces. To have a good
seal the two surfaces would need to be matched so that any irregularities in
one surface were matched against similar irregularities on the other. Just
being smooth would not work if the surfaces were not matched. The ideal
solution would to have each surface perfectly flat but short of having a way
to machine them, the only solution that I could think of was to mould the
two pieces against each other. 

There would be a variety of ways to do this but the principle is to find a
way to match the surfaces. 

I am not sure how adding gelcoat to the cap alone would make matching
surfaces. I think you need to create a smooth surface on BOTH the cap AND
the housing side and the only way to do that as far as I can see would be to
sandwich the surfaces against each other or  perfectly smooth surfaces using
something like thickened epoxy to take the shape of both surfaces.

Also, it might be prudent to make sure that the cap does not distort too
much when bolted down to the housing either by not over tightening the bolts
or by beefing up the cap with increased layers of fibreglass or backing
plates, washers or whatever works to keep it rigid. I built mine up with
fibreglass because it was broken when being removed and needed to be
repaired anyway. 


Graham 


-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Richard Beytagh
Sent: September-28-13 10:15 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Center Board leak

Next Chapter of the Center Board leak. When I removed the center board cap,
it was obvious that there had been a repair by the previous owner so
following various peoples' advice I sanded and re-geled the  surfaces.
Using no sealer, I refitted the rubber gasket and scfrewed down the cap
starting in the middle and working towards the ends. Once again off to the
nearest lake to do a test splash Once again water poured in in copious
quantities. Not quite as much as before, but enough to sink the boat if I
left her in the water.

Plan B....out with the 4200 and sealing both sides of the gasket.

This the Cap with the previous owner's repair:

[image: Inline image 1]


[image: Inline image 3]


Richard
Phone: 828 337 0180


On Wed, Sep 18, 2013 at 1:23 PM, rbeytagh <rbeytagh at gmail.com> wrote:

> Wow....I just splashed my boat for the first time simply to see if the 
> new center board gasket I installed  was water proof. It 
> wasn't....water poured in as if there was nothing there. I tightened 
> all the screws but this only slowed down the in-flow a little. Stan is 
> adamant that no silicon should be used to seal the gasket, but apart 
> from this I can't figure a way to seal this. Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks
> Richard - S/V Waif
> Asheville NC
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context:
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> Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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