[Rhodes22-list] Keel rope replacement
The Rhodes 22 Email List
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Wed Dec 3 12:01:29 EST 2014
First off, congratulations on your purchase and welcome to the list. It does sound like you have a bit of work to do, but you have found the right place to ask questions. While I can't answer some of them, here is info from one of my previous posts on how the wire traveler was rigged on my former boat, a 76 Rhodes Continental. - Rob Lowe
I've also got a '76 with standard main. Posted these pictures before of how my "traveler" is rigged. The backstay adjuster on my boat is shown here, although it should not be knotted as shown here and should go to the cleat on the transom. I've since learned how to run the backstay adjuster and can take a better picture if need be. Also, please ignore the bungee cords, a new topping lift replaced those. I've got a 76 that uses a "traveler wire". Here's what mine looks like. - Rob
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email List
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2014 8:55 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Keel rope replacement
I am a brand new Rhodes 22 owner with a recently purchased a 1974 Rhodes Continental. The good news, I have a really cheap 40 year old boat, a good trailer with new tires, a decent and sound hull, a running 6hp Johnson motor, a good straight mast and boom, decent standing rigging with a non furling main and standard jib in good shape with enough new rope to replace all the running rigging. I also have all the cabin and cockpit cushions in various condition, all the pop top parts and hardware and the parts for the rudder. The fair to bad stuff is the cabin floor that surrounds the keel must be replaced, all the side portlights need new plexi glass then resealing and all the wood rails, sliders and grab bars need to be replaced or have some serious refinishing. The previous owner had put it under cover in 2004 with plans to work on it on and off for 10 years so I ended up with all the left over or unused wood, hardware, running rigging and parts he had bought for it as well. The really bad news was some cats had lived inside for years so three weeks after the purchase I am still deodorizing, washing, sanding, repainting the interior and bilge to get 10 ten years of cat smell, dirt, dust and bugs out . My first stop on the way home with it was $25.00 at a carwash cleaning the inside and outside then a gallon more of interior PineSol rinse has now made it ready for the balance of the interior work.
The minor things are I need to do are rebed all the thru hull fittings and penetrations, put larger fender washers on the thru hull, deck or rail attachments and replace the floor sheathing in the main cabin area and fabricate a new door. The main issue discovered so far is some serious gelcoat stress and weather cracking on the cabin top and deck area that is about 50% repaired now with plans to repaint the entire deck after the fiberglass and gelcoat repairs. I have also started on buffing out and repolishing the hull. As with anything 40 years old I have had lots of good surprises, ie boxes of really nice hardware and sailing rigging along with a couple of bad surprises. I have read through some of the forums and after looking I have discovered my hull is one of the ones depressed in the front tip area of the trailer bunks, nothing severe but it is noticeable. I plan to adjust them after I lift or float the boat off the trailer.
I have searched with interest all the related websites and have now found and joined this Rhodes 22 forum and do have a couple of questions that I would appreciate any and all suggestions offered by the more experienced old Rhodes aka 70's vintage hull owners. Before I learn the hard way, cause damage to the boat or myself, is there any information or pictures available on a good way to re reave or replace the keel control rope without removing the swing keel? The keel housing in my version of the Rhodes 22 is all fiber glassed and only has a small access port 2x4 inches on the top that has a sheave attached to the underside that I see when I pry it up and peek in. I can lift the boat off the trailer and take the keel out but I am looking for a easier method to re reave a new lifting line. I am also assuming that the keel control line should probably be a 5/16" braided hardshell dacon rope if someone can offer their opinion or knowledge.
My other question is much more basic, My boat does not have a mechanical main boom traveler car system, any suggestions or pictures on how to rig a old style rope or cable traveler. I have a concept but I am guessing someone with a similar boat has 40 years of better ideas on how to do it.
Thank you in advance for any and all assistance.
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