[Rhodes22-list] Keel rope replacement

The Rhodes 22 Email List rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Wed Dec 3 13:11:37 EST 2014

Rob and Chris,

Thanks for the information and assistance. I hope I can ask a few more questions as the restoration progresses.

Fred Haag
On Wed, 12/3/14, The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

 Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Keel rope replacement
 To: "The Rhodes 22 Email List" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
 Date: Wednesday, December 3, 2014, 10:01 AM
 First off, congratulations on your purchase and
 welcome to the list.  It does sound like you have a bit of
 work to do, but you have found the right place to ask
 questions.  While I can't answer some of them, here is
 info from one of my previous posts on how the wire traveler
 was rigged on my former boat, a 76 Rhodes Continental. - Rob
 I've also got a '76 with standard
 main.  Posted these pictures before of how my
 "traveler" is rigged. The backstay adjuster on my
 boat is shown here, although it should not be knotted as
 shown here and should go to the cleat on the transom. 
 I've since learned how to run the backstay adjuster and
 can take a better picture if need be.  Also, please ignore
 the bungee cords, a new topping lift replaced those.
 I've got a 76 that uses a "traveler wire". 
 Here's what mine looks like. - Rob
 -----Original Message-----
 From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
 [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org]
 On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email List
 Tuesday, December 02, 2014 8:55 PM
 To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Keel rope
 Hello all,
 I am a brand
 new Rhodes 22 owner with a recently purchased a 1974 Rhodes
 Continental. The good news, I have a really cheap 40 year
 old boat, a good trailer with new tires, a decent and sound
 hull, a running 6hp Johnson motor, a good straight mast and
 boom, decent standing rigging with a non furling main and 
 standard jib in good shape with enough new rope to replace
 all the running rigging. I also have all the cabin and
 cockpit cushions in various condition, all the pop top parts
 and hardware and the parts for the rudder. The fair to bad
 stuff is the cabin floor that surrounds the keel must be
 replaced, all the side portlights need new plexi glass then
 resealing and all the wood rails, sliders and grab bars need
 to be replaced or have some serious refinishing. The
 previous owner had put it under cover in 2004 with plans to
 work on it on and off for 10 years so I ended up with all
 the left over or unused wood, hardware, running rigging and
 parts he had  bought for it as well.!
 The really bad news was some cats had lived inside for years
 so three weeks after the purchase I am still deodorizing,
 washing, sanding, repainting the interior and bilge to get
 10 ten years of cat smell, dirt, dust and bugs out . My
 first stop on the way home with it was $25.00 at a carwash
 cleaning the inside and outside then a gallon more of
 interior PineSol rinse has now made it ready for the balance
 of the interior work.
 minor things are I need to do are rebed all the thru hull
 fittings and penetrations, put larger fender washers on the
 thru hull, deck or rail attachments and replace the floor
 sheathing in the main cabin area and fabricate a new door.
 The main issue discovered so far is some serious gelcoat
 stress and weather cracking on the cabin top and deck area
 that is about 50% repaired now with plans to repaint the
 entire deck after the fiberglass and gelcoat repairs. I have
 also started on buffing out and repolishing the hull.  As
 with anything 40 years old I have had lots of good
 surprises, ie boxes of really nice hardware and sailing
 rigging along with a couple of bad surprises. I have read
 through some of the forums and after looking I have
 discovered my hull is one of the ones depressed in the front
 tip area of the trailer bunks, nothing severe but it is
 noticeable. I plan to adjust them after I lift or float the
 boat off the trailer.
 I have searched with interest
 all the related websites and have now found and joined this
 Rhodes 22 forum and do have a couple of questions that I
 would appreciate any and all suggestions offered by the more
 experienced old Rhodes aka 70's vintage hull owners. 
 Before I learn the hard way, cause damage to the boat or
 myself, is there any information or pictures available on a
 good way to re reave or replace the keel control rope
 without removing the swing keel? The keel housing in my
 version of the Rhodes 22 is all fiber glassed and only has a
 small access port 2x4 inches on the top that has a sheave
 attached to the underside that I see when I pry it up and
 peek in. I can lift the boat off the trailer and take the
 keel out but I am looking for a easier method to re reave a
 new lifting line. I am also assuming that the keel control
 line should probably be a 5/16" braided hardshell dacon
 rope if someone can offer their opinion or knowledge.
 My other question is much more
 basic, My boat does not have a mechanical main boom traveler
 car system, any suggestions or pictures on how to rig a old
 style rope or cable traveler. I have a concept but I am
 guessing someone with a similar boat has 40 years of better
 ideas on how to do it.
 Thank you in advance for any
 and all assistance.
 Fred Haag
 Mesa Arizona
 s/v unnamed!
 To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
 For the list Charter and help with using the
 mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
 To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
 For the list Charter and help
 with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list

More information about the Rhodes22-list mailing list