[Rhodes22-list] Seam line name

The Rhodes 22 Email List rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Mon Dec 8 12:16:24 EST 2014


Graham:
  Yes, the aluminum track with the black plastic.  When Stan riveted the rub rail, he joined the top half to the bottom half of the boat.  So ,there is a seam where the top part meets the bottom part. My question refers to how these two parts meet.  Does the top half overlap the bottom, there they are riveted?  On my Rhodes the top half appears to slide down and to the outside of the hull half.  The rivets are then inserted into the two halves. The rivets after a time will make the hole larger allowing water to enter the boat in some cases to enter the cabin or the cockpit.

Does this sound right to you.  I had wanted to redo the aluminum track but I do not want to use rivets.  Would rather use bolts but there are some areas where I can not get to the inside to place the nut.  I I think screws would be worst than rivets.  A few people replied that they had silicone the top and bottom of the rail and it seemed to be working.  So, I will try it.  It seems to me, that unless the holes get very large the leaks can be contained with a seal on the rail.

I do have another question for you.  The doors inside the galley use a track.  You had mentioned that you are using or will be using some track from Lowe's, can you give me more details on the track you plan on using and also the type and thickness of material you plan on using on the top and bottom galley doors.

Thank for taking the time to answer all my questions and concerns.

Happy Holidays,

Chuy
Rhodes 22 , After-Math
---- The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: 
> Chuy:
> 
> I don't think I understand the question. I don't know what the "sheets" are
> that you are referring to. It may be that your boat has a different rub rail
> than mine and that is the reason I don't understand. On my boat the rub rail
> consists of an aluminium track that is screwed to the hull with a black
> plastic insert that goes into the track. Is this what you are referring to?
> 
> 
> 
> Graham 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
> List
> Sent: December-06-14 9:41 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Seam line name
> 
> Hi Graham,
>   On the rub rail.  How are the top and bottom sheets joined?  Are they
> butted, overlapping?  Some replied that they had to wedge in some rubber.
> How and where does this rubber go?
> 
> Thanks Again,
> Chuy
> 
> 
> ---- The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: 
> > Chuy:
> > 
> > I assume that you are you talking about the hull- deck join? If so the 
> > leak will only occur when healing or taking a large wave. The 
> > "simplest" solution is to remove the sealant in the join and force new 
> > sealant in. Easier said than done. I have used a small wedge to open 
> > the join a bit to allow more sealant in. It is important to remove all 
> > of the old sealant or the new sealant will not hold for long. 
> > Important, but also virtually impossible so do you best. I have done 
> > this several times over 20 years so that might give you some idea of the
> permanence.
> > 
> > Picking the right sealant is important and also a matter that can lead 
> > to great debates. If you use sealant like 3M 5200 or equivalent you 
> > will never get it out again. For hull-deck joins that is usually 
> > desirable because of the strength and, if you are putting it on 
> > fibreglass that has no silicone trace, want to be permanent. In this 
> > case I would anticipate that you might want to redo this fix in the 
> > future and would be inclined to use 3M 4200 or equivalent. I would be
> interested to hear from others on this point.
> > 
> > Ultimately, because I was doing a major reconstruction and had gutted 
> > the entire cabin, I decided to glass the entire join on the inside. 
> > That seals it up "permanently" and gives the hull considerably less 
> > flex at the joint which I assume is a good thing.  To do that I had to 
> > remove the rub rail and the rivets and screws along the join as you 
> > don't want to be glassing around these obstacles. When I reach that 
> > stage in my reconstruction I will add bolts along the join before 
> > replacing the rub rail. If that doesn't fix the leak once and for all, I
> give up.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Graham
> > 
> > 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> > [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 
> > Email List
> > Sent: December-05-14 9:07 AM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Seam line name
> > 
> > Hi All,
> >   Have a leak in my Rhodes 22.  I think most of the water is coming 
> > from the seam where the top skin and bottom skin are joined.  First 
> > what is that seam called?  Second, any ideas on how to repair it?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Chuy
> > Rhodes 22, After-Math
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