[Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull

Wed Feb 4 15:24:59 EST 2015

I would not suggest glassing the joint as a first option or on a newer boat.
It is a lot of work and unless you are stripping out the entire cabin
fixtures, too disruptive. However, if you have already removed all of the
interior structure and have good access to the joint it is not, in my view,
an unwarranted step to take.

There is quite a lot of information on the net about the advantages of
glassing the join on boats where the join is such that glassing is
practicable. Some like the famous world sailor and author Hal Roth, did it
on the outside and then had to completely fair and repaint the entire boat.
That, I would not want to do on any boat where I had any concern about how
it would look afterwards.  The construction of the Rhodes, however, makes
glassing on the inside much easier and practical as the join is entirely
hidden. 

Here is an example of advice on this point:
http://www.wavetrain.net/boats-a-gear/317-fiberglass-boatbuilding-hull-deck-
joints 

Because my boat was already stripped out, it took me a few hours to glass up
the join. It was not difficult and makes a join that is very strong - in
effect making the hull and deck into a single piece. I will still use bolts
so the glass only strengthens what would be there anyway. Weight is minimal
- maybe a few pounds. Increasing rigidity at the join is, in my view, a good
thing as movement at the join is bound to lead to trouble.

My boat is an old one and there is no possibility that it will be recycled
or have the deck removed for any other purpose. But the old boats had
thinner glass construction and are more likely to leak - if only because of
their advanced age. The value will not depreciate as it has little value
anyway. What it should do, however, is give a boat that I like a lot  a new
lease on life.

All that said, you obviously need to carefully consider whether this is a
necessary or worthwhile repair under your particular circumstances. I don't
understand why it would be rejected out of hand in all circumstances.

Graham 

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
List
Sent: February-04-15 1:53 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull

You can improve the joint and create a strong leakproof boat without
glassing it all together.  If the job doesnt go well or the design flex isnt
there you could easily crack that fiberglass seal and then it would leak
like crazy.  You also would remove the option of seperating the boat hull
and deck for rebuild or recycling.  You also will reduce the value or worse
yet just be left with the value of hardware.  Also you cannot stick on a
rubrail with resin... It will "rub" off.  Too much work, too many risks.
Study what Rummy did.  Its a perfect solution!

Bob (palatka fl)

> On Feb 4, 2015, at 8:14 AM, The Rhodes 22 Email List
<rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> Personally, I think this is way overkill.  You'll add a lot of weight 
> to the boat pretty high up above the water line and it has to affect 
> the sailing characteristics.  I doubt you would find any manufacturer 
> of boats today that joins the deck and hull like this so don't 
> understand why you feel it is necessary.  It is a very permanent 
> solution, so think long and hard if you really want to make this
modification.
> 
> Hank
> On Tue, Feb 3, 2015 at 6:00 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List < 
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
>> I have had a lot of great advise from everyone on the Deck and Hull 
>> repair.  But, still have one question/problem.
>> 
>> Rhodes 22 have a Shoe Box joint and have aluminum pop rivets to hold 
>> the joint together, plus some old style glue.  I am following the 
>> lead from Rummy and will Fiberglass the joint and use stainless steel 
>> bolts with locking nuts. Here is my outline of the repair.
>> 
>> On one side of boat at a time:
>> 1. Remove rivets one at a time and in every third hole insert a 
>> temporary bolt and nut to hold joint together. .
>> 2. Remove all rub rail, aluminum and rubber.
>> 3. Sand the area where rub rail was, careful with temporary bolts.
>> 4. Insert permanent bolts with washers and locking nuts, use 5200 to 
>> seal bolts.
>> 5. Tighten nuts from inside of boat. ( some may be hard to reach) 6. 
>> Fiberglass the area , making sure to cover the bottom lip of the 
>> joint and also cover the bolts.
>> 6b. Maybe gelcoat some area.
>> 7. Replace aluminum rub rail and use Fiberglass PEANUT BUTTER to 
>> attach aluminum part to boat.  ???
>> 8. Insert rubber
>> 9. Touch up.
>> 
>> The reason I want to use Fiberglass to set the rub rail is because 
>> setting the rub rail with bolts will require more holes to be 
>> drilled.  My boat leaks from the holes where the aluminum pop rivets 
>> have CORRODED.  I am not in favor of drilling more holes into a boat.  
>> I know that everyone says that it took 30 years for the leaks to 
>> occur but why do the same mistake again?
>> 
>> My question is : Will the rub rail hold using Fiberglass??  Other
Comments?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Chuy
>> 
>> My personal email is chcarreon at cox.net if you would rather reply just 
>> to me.
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