[Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull

Wed Feb 4 18:00:55 EST 2015

Graham:
You present a good argument.  

Bob (palatka fl)

> On Feb 4, 2015, at 3:24 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> I would not suggest glassing the joint as a first option or on a newer boat.
> It is a lot of work and unless you are stripping out the entire cabin
> fixtures, too disruptive. However, if you have already removed all of the
> interior structure and have good access to the joint it is not, in my view,
> an unwarranted step to take.
> 
> There is quite a lot of information on the net about the advantages of
> glassing the join on boats where the join is such that glassing is
> practicable. Some like the famous world sailor and author Hal Roth, did it
> on the outside and then had to completely fair and repaint the entire boat.
> That, I would not want to do on any boat where I had any concern about how
> it would look afterwards.  The construction of the Rhodes, however, makes
> glassing on the inside much easier and practical as the join is entirely
> hidden. 
> 
> Here is an example of advice on this point:
> http://www.wavetrain.net/boats-a-gear/317-fiberglass-boatbuilding-hull-deck-
> joints 
> 
> Because my boat was already stripped out, it took me a few hours to glass up
> the join. It was not difficult and makes a join that is very strong - in
> effect making the hull and deck into a single piece. I will still use bolts
> so the glass only strengthens what would be there anyway. Weight is minimal
> - maybe a few pounds. Increasing rigidity at the join is, in my view, a good
> thing as movement at the join is bound to lead to trouble.
> 
> My boat is an old one and there is no possibility that it will be recycled
> or have the deck removed for any other purpose. But the old boats had
> thinner glass construction and are more likely to leak - if only because of
> their advanced age. The value will not depreciate as it has little value
> anyway. What it should do, however, is give a boat that I like a lot  a new
> lease on life.
> 
> All that said, you obviously need to carefully consider whether this is a
> necessary or worthwhile repair under your particular circumstances. I don't
> understand why it would be rejected out of hand in all circumstances.
> 
> Graham 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
> List
> Sent: February-04-15 1:53 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull
> 
> You can improve the joint and create a strong leakproof boat without
> glassing it all together.  If the job doesnt go well or the design flex isnt
> there you could easily crack that fiberglass seal and then it would leak
> like crazy.  You also would remove the option of seperating the boat hull
> and deck for rebuild or recycling.  You also will reduce the value or worse
> yet just be left with the value of hardware.  Also you cannot stick on a
> rubrail with resin... It will "rub" off.  Too much work, too many risks.
> Study what Rummy did.  Its a perfect solution!
> 
> Bob (palatka fl)
> 
>>> On Feb 4, 2015, at 8:14 AM, The Rhodes 22 Email List
>> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> Personally, I think this is way overkill.  You'll add a lot of weight 
>> to the boat pretty high up above the water line and it has to affect 
>> the sailing characteristics.  I doubt you would find any manufacturer 
>> of boats today that joins the deck and hull like this so don't 
>> understand why you feel it is necessary.  It is a very permanent 
>> solution, so think long and hard if you really want to make this
> modification.
>> 
>> Hank
>> On Tue, Feb 3, 2015 at 6:00 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List < 
>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>>> I have had a lot of great advise from everyone on the Deck and Hull 
>>> repair.  But, still have one question/problem.
>>> 
>>> Rhodes 22 have a Shoe Box joint and have aluminum pop rivets to hold 
>>> the joint together, plus some old style glue.  I am following the 
>>> lead from Rummy and will Fiberglass the joint and use stainless steel 
>>> bolts with locking nuts. Here is my outline of the repair.
>>> 
>>> On one side of boat at a time:
>>> 1. Remove rivets one at a time and in every third hole insert a 
>>> temporary bolt and nut to hold joint together. .
>>> 2. Remove all rub rail, aluminum and rubber.
>>> 3. Sand the area where rub rail was, careful with temporary bolts.
>>> 4. Insert permanent bolts with washers and locking nuts, use 5200 to 
>>> seal bolts.
>>> 5. Tighten nuts from inside of boat. ( some may be hard to reach) 6. 
>>> Fiberglass the area , making sure to cover the bottom lip of the 
>>> joint and also cover the bolts.
>>> 6b. Maybe gelcoat some area.
>>> 7. Replace aluminum rub rail and use Fiberglass PEANUT BUTTER to 
>>> attach aluminum part to boat.  ???
>>> 8. Insert rubber
>>> 9. Touch up.
>>> 
>>> The reason I want to use Fiberglass to set the rub rail is because 
>>> setting the rub rail with bolts will require more holes to be 
>>> drilled.  My boat leaks from the holes where the aluminum pop rivets 
>>> have CORRODED.  I am not in favor of drilling more holes into a boat.  
>>> I know that everyone says that it took 30 years for the leaks to 
>>> occur but why do the same mistake again?
>>> 
>>> My question is : Will the rub rail hold using Fiberglass??  Other
> Comments?
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> Chuy
>>> 
>>> My personal email is chcarreon at cox.net if you would rather reply just 
>>> to me.
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