[Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull

The Rhodes 22 Email List rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Thu Feb 5 16:15:49 EST 2015


My 38 year old San Juan 21 hull/deck joint was glassed when built at the
factory. I will admit  it is light weight compared to Rhodes - 1,500 lbs
(including the 400 lbs in swing keel).  But that means more flex if
anything.

I've never heard of the joint being a problem. In fact it's touted as a
no-problem area.

FWIW

Brooks Bridges
Cambridge, MD





On Wed, Feb 4, 2015 at 6:59 PM, Rhodes 22 mailing list [via Rhodes 22] <
ml-node+s1065344n49440h57 at n5.nabble.com> wrote:

> Glassing the hull-deck joint is contrary to common building practice, if
> not ABYC standards.  That joint needs to flex.
>
> Rick
>
> On Wed, Feb 4, 2015 at 6:00 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
> [hidden email] <http:///user/SendEmail.jtp?type=node&node=49440&i=0>>
> wrote:
>
> > Graham:
> > You present a good argument.
> >
> > Bob (palatka fl)
> >
> > > On Feb 4, 2015, at 3:24 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
> > [hidden email] <http:///user/SendEmail.jtp?type=node&node=49440&i=1>>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > I would not suggest glassing the joint as a first option or on a newer
> > boat.
> > > It is a lot of work and unless you are stripping out the entire cabin
> > > fixtures, too disruptive. However, if you have already removed all of
> the
> > > interior structure and have good access to the joint it is not, in my
> > view,
> > > an unwarranted step to take.
> > >
> > > There is quite a lot of information on the net about the advantages of
> > > glassing the join on boats where the join is such that glassing is
> > > practicable. Some like the famous world sailor and author Hal Roth,
> did
> > it
> > > on the outside and then had to completely fair and repaint the entire
> > boat.
> > > That, I would not want to do on any boat where I had any concern about
> > how
> > > it would look afterwards.  The construction of the Rhodes, however,
> makes
> > > glassing on the inside much easier and practical as the join is
> entirely
> > > hidden.
> > >
> > > Here is an example of advice on this point:
> > >
> >
> http://www.wavetrain.net/boats-a-gear/317-fiberglass-boatbuilding-hull-deck-
> > > joints
> > >
> > > Because my boat was already stripped out, it took me a few hours to
> > glass up
> > > the join. It was not difficult and makes a join that is very strong -
> in
> > > effect making the hull and deck into a single piece. I will still use
> > bolts
> > > so the glass only strengthens what would be there anyway. Weight is
> > minimal
> > > - maybe a few pounds. Increasing rigidity at the join is, in my view,
> a
> > good
> > > thing as movement at the join is bound to lead to trouble.
> > >
> > > My boat is an old one and there is no possibility that it will be
> > recycled
> > > or have the deck removed for any other purpose. But the old boats had
> > > thinner glass construction and are more likely to leak - if only
> because
> > of
> > > their advanced age. The value will not depreciate as it has little
> value
> > > anyway. What it should do, however, is give a boat that I like a lot
>  a
> > new
> > > lease on life.
> > >
> > > All that said, you obviously need to carefully consider whether this
> is a
> > > necessary or worthwhile repair under your particular circumstances. I
> > don't
> > > understand why it would be rejected out of hand in all circumstances.
> > >
> > > Graham
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: [hidden email]
> <http:///user/SendEmail.jtp?type=node&node=49440&i=2>
> > > [mailto:[hidden email]
> <http:///user/SendEmail.jtp?type=node&node=49440&i=3>] On Behalf Of The
> Rhodes 22
> > Email
> > > List
> > > Sent: February-04-15 1:53 PM
> > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull
> > >
> > > You can improve the joint and create a strong leakproof boat without
> > > glassing it all together.  If the job doesnt go well or the design
> flex
> > isnt
> > > there you could easily crack that fiberglass seal and then it would
> leak
> > > like crazy.  You also would remove the option of seperating the boat
> hull
> > > and deck for rebuild or recycling.  You also will reduce the value or
> > worse
> > > yet just be left with the value of hardware.  Also you cannot stick on
> a
> > > rubrail with resin... It will "rub" off.  Too much work, too many
> risks.
> > > Study what Rummy did.  Its a perfect solution!
> > >
> > > Bob (palatka fl)
> > >
> > >>> On Feb 4, 2015, at 8:14 AM, The Rhodes 22 Email List
> > >> <[hidden email] <http:///user/SendEmail.jtp?type=node&node=49440&i=4>>
> wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Personally, I think this is way overkill.  You'll add a lot of weight
> > >> to the boat pretty high up above the water line and it has to affect
> > >> the sailing characteristics.  I doubt you would find any manufacturer
> > >> of boats today that joins the deck and hull like this so don't
> > >> understand why you feel it is necessary.  It is a very permanent
> > >> solution, so think long and hard if you really want to make this
> > > modification.
> > >>
> > >> Hank
> > >> On Tue, Feb 3, 2015 at 6:00 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
> > >> [hidden email] <http:///user/SendEmail.jtp?type=node&node=49440&i=5>>
> wrote:
> > >>
> > >>> I have had a lot of great advise from everyone on the Deck and Hull
> > >>> repair.  But, still have one question/problem.
> > >>>
> > >>> Rhodes 22 have a Shoe Box joint and have aluminum pop rivets to hold
> > >>> the joint together, plus some old style glue.  I am following the
> > >>> lead from Rummy and will Fiberglass the joint and use stainless
> steel
> > >>> bolts with locking nuts. Here is my outline of the repair.
> > >>>
> > >>> On one side of boat at a time:
> > >>> 1. Remove rivets one at a time and in every third hole insert a
> > >>> temporary bolt and nut to hold joint together. .
> > >>> 2. Remove all rub rail, aluminum and rubber.
> > >>> 3. Sand the area where rub rail was, careful with temporary bolts.
> > >>> 4. Insert permanent bolts with washers and locking nuts, use 5200 to
> > >>> seal bolts.
> > >>> 5. Tighten nuts from inside of boat. ( some may be hard to reach) 6.
> > >>> Fiberglass the area , making sure to cover the bottom lip of the
> > >>> joint and also cover the bolts.
> > >>> 6b. Maybe gelcoat some area.
> > >>> 7. Replace aluminum rub rail and use Fiberglass PEANUT BUTTER to
> > >>> attach aluminum part to boat.  ???
> > >>> 8. Insert rubber
> > >>> 9. Touch up.
> > >>>
> > >>> The reason I want to use Fiberglass to set the rub rail is because
> > >>> setting the rub rail with bolts will require more holes to be
> > >>> drilled.  My boat leaks from the holes where the aluminum pop rivets
> > >>> have CORRODED.  I am not in favor of drilling more holes into a
> boat.
> > >>> I know that everyone says that it took 30 years for the leaks to
> > >>> occur but why do the same mistake again?
> > >>>
> > >>> My question is : Will the rub rail hold using Fiberglass??  Other
> > > Comments?
> > >>>
> > >>> Thanks,
> > >>> Chuy
> > >>>
> > >>> My personal email is [hidden email]
> <http:///user/SendEmail.jtp?type=node&node=49440&i=6> if you would rather
> reply just
> > >>> to me.
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