[Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull

[The Rhodes 22 Email List]

The cabin top mast step of the San Juan 21 is mounted directly onto the
compression post which sits directly on the keel trunk.  In other words,
there is no deck compression from downward pressure of the mast, just like
a keel stepped mast.

Spacing bolts too close is the same mistake as glassing together the joint.

Rick

On Thu, Feb 5, 2015 at 5:45 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Chuy:
>
> Good summary and sorry to be part of the confusion.
>
> If it helps to sort out he confusing advice, I think that the options of
> glassing or using 5200 (or equivalent) might not be all that different in
> the end. They claim that 5200 is as strong as the glass - although that
> would depend on whether it is applied properly - and using glass would also
> as strong as the hull and deck if is of sufficient thickness.  5200 is more
> flexible than glass but with bolts every foot or so, the flex would be
> minimal, if any, anyway.
>
> With glass you should be able to get away with fewer bolts. I consulted
> with
> a master boat restoration person on this point who told me I should use a
> bolt every 4 feet! That seemed very far spaced to me so I will probably use
> a bolt about every 18" to be safe.
>
> If you can get rid of the existing sealant and get a good quantity of the
> new sealant deep into the join, then go with that option. If you can't get
> adequate sealant into the join or if it cures faster than you can apply the
> bolts, or possibly, if you want to avoid removing the rub rail,  then you
> might want to go the route of the glass - providing you have good access to
> the join on the inside of the boat. Of course, these approaches are not
> mutually exclusive either. In fact, I plan to use the sealant and more
> closely-spaced bolts on the back quarter and transom.
>
> Either way, I think you will end up with a good and permanent fix. Which
> method you choose should be guided by the materials you feel most
> comfortable using and which method offers greatest access to the join
> rather
> than be too concerned about which is "better".
>
> Just do what you think will be most achievable and feasible under your
> circumstance. Either way I think the fix will be good and permanent.
>
> Graham
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
> Email
> List
> Sent: February-05-15 3:30 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull
>
> I have received a lot of emails concerning my ideas on Deck to hull  leak
> repair.  Some people said don't glass other said use glass.  Some pointed
> out articles that stated to glass, other pointed to articles stated to use
> 5200.  Seems to me that Glassing and 5200 are about the same in terms of
> bonding and later in removing.
>
> Some liked the idea of a strong, ridge side, some were concerning about not
> being flexible.
>
> Some, like the glass inside the hull but did not like the glass outside.
> Others thought that glass would ruin the boat for various reasons, while
> others thought that the glass would increasing the worth of the boat.
>
> The boat spend most of its sailing days in Florida.  I do want to point out
> that my pop rivets were corroded and in some cases totally gone.  Some of
> the rivets were nothing more thin aluminum around white dust. (Chemical
> reaction of aluminum and salt water )
>
> So, I am a not a little confused!!!  I am a lot confused.
>
> However, I realize more replies will give me more options to consider and
> to
> select a good one.  Not sure there is a GREAT and ONLY ONE.
>
> Thanks, and keep the comments coming,
> Chuy
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