[Rhodes22-list] Navigation lights

Sun Sep 13 14:47:12 EDT 2015

Graham,
  I really like the LEd's,I've changed all mine out several years ago,
really glad I did. Saturday before Labor Day,my grandsons and I watched
the fireworks from the boat and were one of the first boats back in the
slip.I'm on the end of the dock,which is great for sailing into the
slip,but on fireworks night , it leaves me exposed to the 40 or50 boats
that have to pass by me to get to their slip in the dark. So I left the
nav lights on, to be more visible,figuring I would be by Monday to turn
them off. Didn't happen. When I got there Thursday afternoon,the lights
we're still shining brightly.  That would not be the case with the old
lights.
 What I would suggest is change all the lights high up on the mast,(
anchor,steaming,deck lights) to LEd's, as they are the hardest ones to
get to when in a slip or on a moowing, and the first to go out,normally.
I would highly recommend new fixtures,not just bulbs, as the clips that
hold the bulbs corrode at the point of contact with the bulb, and in my
experience,way before the end of the season.
 The rest of the lights , you may want to wait until you splash,and see
how much you use the other lights,and change them out as you see fit.
As for the tri color mast head light, I think it would depend on the area
you plan to sail in. For big water, bays,Great Lakes,ocean, I think the
mast head may get you seen better. Smaller lakes and maybe rivers,it might
be best for lights to be lower.
 One thing to think about is that LEd's are diodes,and you can control two
lights with two wires by reversing the polarity. HOWEVER,the lights have
to be made for this application. A question to ask before you buy! 
Also,you can't run both lights at the same time, so you will need to
arrange them like steaming/ anchor or deck / steaming or anchor / windex,
you get he idea.
 One thing for sure,I have the brightest lights in the marina!,

am wondering how newer Rhodes are equipped with navigation lights or if
> anyone has any strong preferences for lights. My 76 had the red and green
> lights mounted on the cabin sides back at the cockpit rather than near the
> bow. Is that still the case or have they been moved forward to the bow?
> Has
> anyone installed a masthead tricolor light? LED lights seem sensible but
> are
> they worth the added expense? Any recommendations would be welcome.
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
> Email
> List
> Sent: September 12, 2015 6:32 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation
>
> Larry:
> I used white oak and epoxy when I rebuilt my 20' mahogany runabout to
> replace rotted ribs and bottom. White oak is resistant to rot but not
> impervious as the original wood ribs were white oak as well and eventually
> rotted albeit over a 40 year period. The big advantage using white oak is
> that it is amazing wood to steam bend. It is hard as rock when dry but
> after
> steaming for a while thin strips can be bent by hand easily. That makes it
> perfect for steam-bent ribs.
>
> Hopefully the epoxy will prohibit rot that only works if the epoxy totally
> encapsulates the wood with no cuts gouges or holes in the wood. In my case
> the epoxy also bonded the ribs to mahogany ply that was used to cold mold
> the new bottom. That combination made for an incredibly strong, solid, dry
> and relatively light boat.
>
> For the Rhodes floor, however, white oak is expensive and I would be
> inclined to use something that did not depend on the epoxy to be perfectly
> sealed. Pressure treated seems like the easiest, cheapest and most certain
> material to use. I will still use epoxy to bond it in place. Before I
> bought
> my Rhodes the previous owner rebuilt the floor structure using pressure
> treated fence boards. They lasted for more than 20 years with no sign of
> rot. The problem with using fence boats is that they are only .5 inch
> thick
> and that did not give a sufficiently wide edge for the floor boards to be
> screwed down. I was also unhappy with where they were located so I tore it
> all out to be replaced with thicker stock. I will no doubt be kicking
> myself
> for that as tearing things out is so much easier than putting it all back
> in
> - a realization that weighs more heavily as I consider that it was not
> really necessary except to feed my obsessive nature.
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
> Email
> List
> Sent: September 12, 2015 1:47 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation
>
> When we rebuilt the floor and stringers, we used White Oak stringers and
> expoxied them.
>
> Larry Allen
> Makai
> Sarasota
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
> Email
> List
> Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2015 11:11 AM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation
>
> Bob:
>
> Best and crucial solution is to stop the leaks. I have gone to ridiculous
> lengths to do that by glassing the hull-heck joint and installing full
> acrylic window coverings to replace all ports.
>
> I am not sure that ventilation alone would preclude rot over time if the
> bilge is not dry otherwise. I plan to rebuild the floor and stringers with
> rot resistant materials - I will probably use pressure treated pine for
> the
> structural pieces. That said, ventilation still serves a purpose in terms
> of
> mold and mildew etc.
>
> I have installed a solar vent that should keep air moving in the boat. The
> bilge is hardly air tight at the best of time and, so long as water is not
> getting in, good cabin ventilation should be sufficient to move air
> through
> the bilge. For long periods and during the winter when the solar vent may
> not be operating I will leave the floor access panels open.
>
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
> Email
> List
> Sent: September 11, 2015 7:54 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation
>
> Has anyone installed vent holes or even active ventilation under the floor
> to prevent the stringers and floor from rotting out?
>
> Bob (palatka)
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