[Rhodes22-list] Navigation lights

[The Rhodes 22 Email List]

Oh yea,
Jerry Lowe
S/V Country Rhodes  '86



> Graham,
>   I really like the LEd's,I've changed all mine out several years ago,
> really glad I did. Saturday before Labor Day,my grandsons and I watched
> the fireworks from the boat and were one of the first boats back in the
> slip.I'm on the end of the dock,which is great for sailing into the
> slip,but on fireworks night , it leaves me exposed to the 40 or50 boats
> that have to pass by me to get to their slip in the dark. So I left the
> nav lights on, to be more visible,figuring I would be by Monday to turn
> them off. Didn't happen. When I got there Thursday afternoon,the lights
> we're still shining brightly.  That would not be the case with the old
> lights.
>  What I would suggest is change all the lights high up on the mast,(
> anchor,steaming,deck lights) to LEd's, as they are the hardest ones to
> get to when in a slip or on a moowing, and the first to go out,normally.
> I would highly recommend new fixtures,not just bulbs, as the clips that
> hold the bulbs corrode at the point of contact with the bulb, and in my
> experience,way before the end of the season.
>  The rest of the lights , you may want to wait until you splash,and see
> how much you use the other lights,and change them out as you see fit.
> As for the tri color mast head light, I think it would depend on the area
> you plan to sail in. For big water, bays,Great Lakes,ocean, I think the
> mast head may get you seen better. Smaller lakes and maybe rivers,it might
> be best for lights to be lower.
>  One thing to think about is that LEd's are diodes,and you can control two
> lights with two wires by reversing the polarity. HOWEVER,the lights have
> to be made for this application. A question to ask before you buy!
> Also,you can't run both lights at the same time, so you will need to
> arrange them like steaming/ anchor or deck / steaming or anchor / windex,
> you get he idea.
>  One thing for sure,I have the brightest lights in the marina!,
>
>
>
> am wondering how newer Rhodes are equipped with navigation lights or if
>> anyone has any strong preferences for lights. My 76 had the red and
>> green
>> lights mounted on the cabin sides back at the cockpit rather than near
>> the
>> bow. Is that still the case or have they been moved forward to the bow?
>> Has
>> anyone installed a masthead tricolor light? LED lights seem sensible but
>> are
>> they worth the added expense? Any recommendations would be welcome.
>>
>>
>> Graham Stewart
>> Agile. R22, 1976
>> Kingston Ontario Canada
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
>> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
>> Email
>> List
>> Sent: September 12, 2015 6:32 PM
>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation
>>
>> Larry:
>> I used white oak and epoxy when I rebuilt my 20' mahogany runabout to
>> replace rotted ribs and bottom. White oak is resistant to rot but not
>> impervious as the original wood ribs were white oak as well and
>> eventually
>> rotted albeit over a 40 year period. The big advantage using white oak
>> is
>> that it is amazing wood to steam bend. It is hard as rock when dry but
>> after
>> steaming for a while thin strips can be bent by hand easily. That makes
>> it
>> perfect for steam-bent ribs.
>>
>> Hopefully the epoxy will prohibit rot that only works if the epoxy
>> totally
>> encapsulates the wood with no cuts gouges or holes in the wood. In my
>> case
>> the epoxy also bonded the ribs to mahogany ply that was used to cold
>> mold
>> the new bottom. That combination made for an incredibly strong, solid,
>> dry
>> and relatively light boat.
>>
>> For the Rhodes floor, however, white oak is expensive and I would be
>> inclined to use something that did not depend on the epoxy to be
>> perfectly
>> sealed. Pressure treated seems like the easiest, cheapest and most
>> certain
>> material to use. I will still use epoxy to bond it in place. Before I
>> bought
>> my Rhodes the previous owner rebuilt the floor structure using pressure
>> treated fence boards. They lasted for more than 20 years with no sign of
>> rot. The problem with using fence boats is that they are only .5 inch
>> thick
>> and that did not give a sufficiently wide edge for the floor boards to
>> be
>> screwed down. I was also unhappy with where they were located so I tore
>> it
>> all out to be replaced with thicker stock. I will no doubt be kicking
>> myself
>> for that as tearing things out is so much easier than putting it all
>> back
>> in
>> - a realization that weighs more heavily as I consider that it was not
>> really necessary except to feed my obsessive nature.
>>
>>
>> Graham Stewart
>> Agile. R22, 1976
>> Kingston Ontario Canada
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
>> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
>> Email
>> List
>> Sent: September 12, 2015 1:47 PM
>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation
>>
>> When we rebuilt the floor and stringers, we used White Oak stringers and
>> expoxied them.
>>
>> Larry Allen
>> Makai
>> Sarasota
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
>> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
>> Email
>> List
>> Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2015 11:11 AM
>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation
>>
>> Bob:
>>
>> Best and crucial solution is to stop the leaks. I have gone to
>> ridiculous
>> lengths to do that by glassing the hull-heck joint and installing full
>> acrylic window coverings to replace all ports.
>>
>> I am not sure that ventilation alone would preclude rot over time if the
>> bilge is not dry otherwise. I plan to rebuild the floor and stringers
>> with
>> rot resistant materials - I will probably use pressure treated pine for
>> the
>> structural pieces. That said, ventilation still serves a purpose in
>> terms
>> of
>> mold and mildew etc.
>>
>> I have installed a solar vent that should keep air moving in the boat.
>> The
>> bilge is hardly air tight at the best of time and, so long as water is
>> not
>> getting in, good cabin ventilation should be sufficient to move air
>> through
>> the bilge. For long periods and during the winter when the solar vent
>> may
>> not be operating I will leave the floor access panels open.
>>
>>
>>
>> Graham Stewart
>> Agile. R22, 1976
>> Kingston Ontario Canada
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
>> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
>> Email
>> List
>> Sent: September 11, 2015 7:54 PM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation
>>
>> Has anyone installed vent holes or even active ventilation under the
>> floor
>> to prevent the stringers and floor from rotting out?
>>
>> Bob (palatka)
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>>
>> __________________________________________________
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>
>
> __________________________________________________
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>
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>