[Rhodes22-list] Navigation lights

[The Rhodes 22 Email List]

Lights mounted on the bow pulpit and transom rail are more consistent with
current standards.  The wiring for my '93 is run through the rails to the
fixtures.

Rick

Regards,

Rick

On Sun, Sep 13, 2015 at 9:54 AM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> I am wondering how newer Rhodes are equipped with navigation lights or if
> anyone has any strong preferences for lights. My 76 had the red and green
> lights mounted on the cabin sides back at the cockpit rather than near the
> bow. Is that still the case or have they been moved forward to the bow? Has
> anyone installed a masthead tricolor light? LED lights seem sensible but
> are
> they worth the added expense? Any recommendations would be welcome.
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
> Email
> List
> Sent: September 12, 2015 6:32 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation
>
> Larry:
> I used white oak and epoxy when I rebuilt my 20' mahogany runabout to
> replace rotted ribs and bottom. White oak is resistant to rot but not
> impervious as the original wood ribs were white oak as well and eventually
> rotted albeit over a 40 year period. The big advantage using white oak is
> that it is amazing wood to steam bend. It is hard as rock when dry but
> after
> steaming for a while thin strips can be bent by hand easily. That makes it
> perfect for steam-bent ribs.
>
> Hopefully the epoxy will prohibit rot that only works if the epoxy totally
> encapsulates the wood with no cuts gouges or holes in the wood. In my case
> the epoxy also bonded the ribs to mahogany ply that was used to cold mold
> the new bottom. That combination made for an incredibly strong, solid, dry
> and relatively light boat.
>
> For the Rhodes floor, however, white oak is expensive and I would be
> inclined to use something that did not depend on the epoxy to be perfectly
> sealed. Pressure treated seems like the easiest, cheapest and most certain
> material to use. I will still use epoxy to bond it in place. Before I
> bought
> my Rhodes the previous owner rebuilt the floor structure using pressure
> treated fence boards. They lasted for more than 20 years with no sign of
> rot. The problem with using fence boats is that they are only .5 inch thick
> and that did not give a sufficiently wide edge for the floor boards to be
> screwed down. I was also unhappy with where they were located so I tore it
> all out to be replaced with thicker stock. I will no doubt be kicking
> myself
> for that as tearing things out is so much easier than putting it all back
> in
> - a realization that weighs more heavily as I consider that it was not
> really necessary except to feed my obsessive nature.
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
> Email
> List
> Sent: September 12, 2015 1:47 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation
>
> When we rebuilt the floor and stringers, we used White Oak stringers and
> expoxied them.
>
> Larry Allen
> Makai
> Sarasota
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
> Email
> List
> Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2015 11:11 AM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation
>
> Bob:
>
> Best and crucial solution is to stop the leaks. I have gone to ridiculous
> lengths to do that by glassing the hull-heck joint and installing full
> acrylic window coverings to replace all ports.
>
> I am not sure that ventilation alone would preclude rot over time if the
> bilge is not dry otherwise. I plan to rebuild the floor and stringers with
> rot resistant materials - I will probably use pressure treated pine for the
> structural pieces. That said, ventilation still serves a purpose in terms
> of
> mold and mildew etc.
>
> I have installed a solar vent that should keep air moving in the boat. The
> bilge is hardly air tight at the best of time and, so long as water is not
> getting in, good cabin ventilation should be sufficient to move air through
> the bilge. For long periods and during the winter when the solar vent may
> not be operating I will leave the floor access panels open.
>
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
> Email
> List
> Sent: September 11, 2015 7:54 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation
>
> Has anyone installed vent holes or even active ventilation under the floor
> to prevent the stringers and floor from rotting out?
>
> Bob (palatka)
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> __________________________________________________
>
>
> __________________________________________________
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>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to
> http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to
> http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>