[Rhodes22-list] Navigation lights

Sun Sep 13 20:31:12 EDT 2015

Rick:

That makes sense to me except that my bow pulpit has no bracket for a light.
I will see if I can find something that can be clamped on or, if necessary,
see if I can have a plate welded on.

Graham Stewart
Agile. R22, 1976
Kingston Ontario Canada

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
List
Sent: September 13, 2015 3:26 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Navigation lights

Lights mounted on the bow pulpit and transom rail are more consistent with
current standards.  The wiring for my '93 is run through the rails to the
fixtures.

Rick

Regards,

Rick

On Sun, Sep 13, 2015 at 9:54 AM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> I am wondering how newer Rhodes are equipped with navigation lights or 
> if anyone has any strong preferences for lights. My 76 had the red and 
> green lights mounted on the cabin sides back at the cockpit rather 
> than near the bow. Is that still the case or have they been moved 
> forward to the bow? Has anyone installed a masthead tricolor light? 
> LED lights seem sensible but are they worth the added expense? Any 
> recommendations would be welcome.
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 
> Email List
> Sent: September 12, 2015 6:32 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation
>
> Larry:
> I used white oak and epoxy when I rebuilt my 20' mahogany runabout to 
> replace rotted ribs and bottom. White oak is resistant to rot but not 
> impervious as the original wood ribs were white oak as well and 
> eventually rotted albeit over a 40 year period. The big advantage 
> using white oak is that it is amazing wood to steam bend. It is hard 
> as rock when dry but after steaming for a while thin strips can be 
> bent by hand easily. That makes it perfect for steam-bent ribs.
>
> Hopefully the epoxy will prohibit rot that only works if the epoxy 
> totally encapsulates the wood with no cuts gouges or holes in the 
> wood. In my case the epoxy also bonded the ribs to mahogany ply that 
> was used to cold mold the new bottom. That combination made for an 
> incredibly strong, solid, dry and relatively light boat.
>
> For the Rhodes floor, however, white oak is expensive and I would be 
> inclined to use something that did not depend on the epoxy to be 
> perfectly sealed. Pressure treated seems like the easiest, cheapest 
> and most certain material to use. I will still use epoxy to bond it in 
> place. Before I bought my Rhodes the previous owner rebuilt the floor 
> structure using pressure treated fence boards. They lasted for more 
> than 20 years with no sign of rot. The problem with using fence boats 
> is that they are only .5 inch thick and that did not give a 
> sufficiently wide edge for the floor boards to be screwed down. I was 
> also unhappy with where they were located so I tore it all out to be 
> replaced with thicker stock. I will no doubt be kicking myself for 
> that as tearing things out is so much easier than putting it all back 
> in
> - a realization that weighs more heavily as I consider that it was not 
> really necessary except to feed my obsessive nature.
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 
> Email List
> Sent: September 12, 2015 1:47 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation
>
> When we rebuilt the floor and stringers, we used White Oak stringers 
> and expoxied them.
>
> Larry Allen
> Makai
> Sarasota
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 
> Email List
> Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2015 11:11 AM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation
>
> Bob:
>
> Best and crucial solution is to stop the leaks. I have gone to 
> ridiculous lengths to do that by glassing the hull-heck joint and 
> installing full acrylic window coverings to replace all ports.
>
> I am not sure that ventilation alone would preclude rot over time if 
> the bilge is not dry otherwise. I plan to rebuild the floor and 
> stringers with rot resistant materials - I will probably use pressure 
> treated pine for the structural pieces. That said, ventilation still 
> serves a purpose in terms of mold and mildew etc.
>
> I have installed a solar vent that should keep air moving in the boat. 
> The bilge is hardly air tight at the best of time and, so long as 
> water is not getting in, good cabin ventilation should be sufficient 
> to move air through the bilge. For long periods and during the winter 
> when the solar vent may not be operating I will leave the floor access
panels open.
>
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 
> Email List
> Sent: September 11, 2015 7:54 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation
>
> Has anyone installed vent holes or even active ventilation under the 
> floor to prevent the stringers and floor from rotting out?
>
> Bob (palatka)
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> __________________________________________________
>
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> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list 
> __________________________________________________
>
> __________________________________________________
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>
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> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list 
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