[Rhodes22-list] Chainplates and handrails installed

Tue Sep 22 08:41:55 EDT 2015

Graham,

I must say, you do some wonder looking work.  I'm in awe at how good your chain plate repairs look.  As someone who has never worked with epoxy or glass, I wouldn't even think of attempting what you are doing.  I understand grinding out an area and refilling it with epoxy and sawdust, but how to you put the gel coat layer on?  I've got a couple of areas on my boat that could use a similar treatment but I wouldn't know where to start.  The new grab rails look fabulous too! - Rob

Rob Lowe
(still no name) R22

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email List
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2015 4:13 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Chainplates and handrails installed

I just completed installing the new lower chainplates and cabin handrails and attach some photos for those  who might be interested in these projects.

I removed the lower chainplates by grinding out a fairly large area and then filled the space with epoxy and sawdust. This created a very solid core that gave what I hope and expect will be a good place for the new forged eye bolts that I am using as the new lower chainplates that bolt through the cabin top. They are sealed with butyl. They cost about $14 each in Canada - about double the price in the US.

I replaced the original teak handrails with and 18" and a 24" rail on each side. I also installed 9" handrails at the front of the cockpit. They are thru-bolted and sealed with butyl after filling the hole with epoxy and thickener. The six rails cost about $120 Canadian. They should be maintenance free and, I think, look good with the new windows.

Butyl, aside for its excellent qualities as a sealant, is also wonderful to work with. Given that I do everything a minimum of two times (if I am lucky) and in the case of the handrail installation, multiple times, it was remarkably easy to remove the rails and clean up the butyl left behind.
Butyl sticks poorly to everything except itself. As a result you don't need to mask the area as you can just lift off the butyl that squeezes onto the deck. To get the tiny bits you can just dab them with a ball of butyl. No gloves needed. Butyl never hardens so you have no time limits around installation of cleanup. I can't imagine doing this task with sealant. 

The deck looks white in the photo but actually it is an off-white on the brown side (System Three Whidby white). 

Next job, if I can get to it before it gets too cold, is to paint the non-skid areas with Kiwigrip. Then, time permitting, will be the rest of the deck hardware.

Graham Stewart
Agile. R22, 1976
Kingston Ontario Canada

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email List
Sent: September 15, 2015 11:57 AM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Electrical help- nav light anchor light combo

Ted,

The diagram shows that you can hook the light up to a single switch that will be three positions, Front only, Both, or all off.

This switch would work perfectly.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6Pin-DPDT-ON-OFF-ON-3-Position-Snap-Boat-Rocker-Swit
ch-6A-250V-10A-125V-AC-/291287946050?hash=item43d21d5342

Hook your power to both the center pins. 
Then hook the white wire to 1a and 1b (marked on the side of the switch).
Finally, connect the grey wire to 2b.

Set up this way, the forward light will be lit when the switch is set to the single dash, and will have both lights lit when the rocker is moved to the two dash position.

James
1971 Rhodes Continental, Still unnamed.

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email List
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2015 11:50 AM
To: Da List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electrical help- nav light anchor light combo

So, I am trying to figure out the best way to wire my nav lights and anchor light. It turns out my factory installed perko masthead light is both a steaming light and a anchor light. Who knew?!? When I turn on the masthead light on the circuit panel it only turns on the front steaming light part. 

I always just thought it was just a steaming light. However, it is not wired with a switch to turn on the rear anchor light. Not to my knowledge anyway.
See perko wiring instructions. 

http://www.perko.com/images/catalog/pdf/Figs%201181&84%20Inst%20(1181INS1).p
df

So I take it I need to wire in a switch to control both?

How do you guys have your setup?

Cheers,
Ted

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