[Rhodes22-list] Tex on Centerboard

The Rhodes 22 Email List rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Mon Feb 22 15:48:51 EST 2016


Thank you.  The product I saw at Home Depot was indeed polyester.
Patrick

On Mon, Feb 22, 2016 at 6:47 AM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Alex:
>
> Don't confuse epoxy resin with polyester resin. The latter is much cheaper
> and has very different attributes. The application methods also differ.
> Epoxy is much stronger, durable and water resistant and is far superior for
> repairs such as you plan on your centreboard.
>
> Your boat, like all boats, are made with polyester resin - because of its
> cost and fast curing. Epoxy adheres to polyester but polyester does not
> adhere well to epoxy so you would not use epoxy if for any reason you
> wanted
> to cover it with polyester as might occur if you are also wanting to do
> some
> gel coat repairs. Gel coat is polyester
>
> For a repair such as the one you are considering I would not try to save by
> using polyester.
>
> Graham
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
> Email
> List
> Sent: February 21, 2016 2:15 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Tex on Centerboard
>
> Thanks for the epoxy advice.  I haven't done any fiberglass work
> either...yet.  Are there less expensive alternatives to West Marine that
> work well enough?  I see home depot has some 3m resin and some filler.
>
> Alex,
> I believe you are right about the trailer.  If the boat is further back the
> centerboard will stay on a rubber roller and not swing down to hit the
> axle.
> However, I do believe I need to get it forward to get the tongue weight
> right.  I have some number on that from weighing boat and trailer.
> I will publish those in a separate post after I locate them.
>
>
> On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 10:21 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> > Or a turkey baster modified with a plunger.
> >
> > Larry
> > Sarasota
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> > [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
> > Email List
> > Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 8:29 PM
> > To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Tex on Centerboard
> >
> > Patrick:
> >
> > I don't think a syringe that a veterinarian would use would be
> > sufficient unless he treats elephants. I also expect that a sterile
> > syringe would be a bit pricy. I got my syringes at an automotive
> > store. It is used for measuring and dispensing oil. They work great as
> > they are large enough to pack a reasonable amount of thickened epoxy
> > into the top where the plunger goes. The thickened epoxy is too
> > viscous to draw up into the cartridge with the plunger. The tip can be
> cut
> to fit the hole snugly.
> >
> > If these aren't available I have also found "flavour injectors" in the
> > kitchen section of my  local dollar store but in that case they come
> > with a needle point which is too fine for thickened epoxy mix but work
> > ok for unthickened epoxy. However, you can take the needle off and
> > just use the cartridge. I have attached pictures of what I use.
> > Graham
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> > [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
> > Email List
> > Sent: February 19, 2016 5:00 PM
> > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Tex on Centerboard
> >
> > Patrick
> > Another consideration.   Do you have one of Stan's custom made drive on
> > trailers?   When Tivo (Stan's man) delivered my boat he cautioned me not
> to
> > pull it too far forward on the trailer to avoid damaging the centerboard.
> > The bow stop is adjustable, and got moved around while the trailer was
> > in storage.  Being cautious I didn't load far enough forward when I
> pulled
> out
> > for winter layup.     Woops.   Insufficient tongue weight.    When Tivo
> > came
> > back last fall to install a forgotten Bimini, he told me the back of the
> > deck house and grab rail should be about even with a single axle.    The
> > first photo was when the pros loaded it.   The second with the building
> in
> > back was my bad reloading when the marina closed for the season.
> > Stan, can you back me up on this??
> > I'll defer to Graham on the repair, but have filled hull / cockpit deck
> > voids in the same manner on my old boat.   Your local veterinary clinic
> can
> > help you out with the big syringes.
> > Alex Cole DVMUrbana OHSV Lark
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 11:32:14 -0700
> > > From: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Marine Tex on Centerboard
> > > To: "rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > > Message-ID:
> > >       <CAJGJx+Cr_0ERnqogO=
> > aqOyTi3uk0YBNLWyNkqMjQyqMpVtsdDw at mail.gmail.com>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> > >
> > > Attached (hopefully) are a couple of pictures of the forward edge of
> > > my centerboard.  This damage has come from banging into the trailer
> > > axle I guess.  I would like to try to repair with Marine Tex, which
> > > I have never used.  Any advice?  Maybe after cleaning up the area I
> > > should drill a few holes and insert toothpicks or SS screws to give
> > > the Tex something to hold on to?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Patrick Riley
> > > Lakewood, CO
> > > S/V Cleone
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> >
> > > Message: 6
> > > Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 15:40:00 -0500
> > > From: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Marine Tex on Centerboard
> > > To: "'The Rhodes 22 Email List'" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > > Message-ID: <00ba01d16a8c$8a16f0e0$9e44d2a0$@ca>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain;     charset="us-ascii"
> > >
> > > Patrick:
> > >
> > > >From the picture I suspect that the damage was caused by more than
> > > >just
> > > hitting the trailer. I suspect that the board was structurally weak
> > > due to large voids inside which may have filled with water. If you
> > > have a cold climate where you are the water would do a lot of damage
> > > as it
> > freezes.
> > > Tapping the board with something hard should tell you if there are
> > > other voids and if so, I would definitely fix those first.
> > >
> > > I had this problem with my rudder and centreboard. The fix that I
> > > used for the voids was fairly simple. I drilled holes wherever I
> > > suspected there might be a void. It is best to have more than one
> > > hole in each void so that when you eject epoxy into one hole the air
> > > can escape from the other. If you see any sign of moisture I would
> > > wait some time to allow the moisture to evaporate from inside the
> > > board before filling it
> > with epoxy.
> > >
> > > I used a big syringe with a plastic 1/4" tip to pump unthickened
> > > epoxy into each hole until it came out the neighbouring holes. It is
> > > best to drill holes that fit the tip of the syringe tightly so you
> > > can build a bit of pressure to push the epoxy in. You will need to
> > > top it up several times as the epoxy finds its way down into the
> > > board. Once it won't take any more, let the epoxy set until it is no
> > > longer fluid and then flip the board over and do the same on the
> > > other side. When I did mine I was really surprised how much epoxy I
> > > was able to pump into the core. I am sure I injected more than a
> > > quart. I did the same with my centreboard housing and it took 3 GALLONS
> to fill the voids.
> > >
> > > As for the damaged cavity, I would clean out the cavity, make sure
> > > it is dry, coat the cavity with epoxy and then and fill it in with
> > > layers of epoxy thickened with high-strength adhesive filler. Epoxy
> > > can generate a lot of heat as it cures so build the cavity in layers
> > > (about 1") but addg each layer as soon as it starts to cool. At this
> > > point the previous layer will stop being tacky but still soft enough
> > > to
> > scratch it with your fingernail.
> > > If you wait until it cures completely, you should grind a coarse
> > > surface on the old to provide for a mechanical bond.
> > >
> > > Using pins is unnecessary. Toothpicks would be useless. Properly
> > > thickened epoxy will keep its form without support. Make the batch
> > > to the consistency of peanut butter.
> > >
> > > Use fairing filler for the final few layers as it is MUCH easier to
> sand.
> > > Try to make the two sides of the board as similar as you can.
> > >
> > > I would also be tempted to cover it all with fibreglass as there may
> > > be fine crals where water could migrate. Finally, I would coat the
> > > whole rudder with at least four  coats of regular epoxy. You can
> > > apply the coats as soon as the epoxy will hold properly to the
> > > previous coat
> > > -
> > about 20 minutes.
> > >
> > > This is a bit of a nuisance but not difficult to do.
> > >
> > > Grahame
> > >
> > > Graham Stewart
> > > Agile. R22, 1976
> > > Kingston Ontario Canada
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
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> >
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> > go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
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> >
>
>
>
> --
> Patrick Riley
> Lakewood, CO
> S/V Cleone
> __________________________________________________
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>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to
> http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>
> __________________________________________________
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>



-- 
Patrick Riley
Lakewood, CO
S/V Cleone


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