[Rhodes22-list] Cabin hatch lock

[Chris Geankoplis]

Hey Peter,
               There was a mm or so slop in mine too that I installed
yesterday.  I use some 3/4" heat shrink sleeve  (for electrical
connections) cut to length.  I first wrapped the lock barrel with a piece
of alum coke can material to prevent the thermal glue on the sleeve from
interfering with the locking pin at the bottom of the side of the barrel.
This both eliminated the slop and sealed the lock from much of the weather
so it is nice and tight.  Didn't figure out about the glue problem the
first time around. (sheepish grin).

Chris Geankoplis

On Fri, Jul 14, 2017 at 1:46 PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
wrote:

> I needed to replace my cabin hatch lock as well.  I ordered the one from
> Global Industries that Mike provided the link for.  It fit the existing
> three holes.  The body of the new lock is a bit smaller than the body of
> the original lock, but there’s a little trim piece that covers the gap.
>
> Thanks Mike.
>
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>
>
> > On Jun 30, 2017, at 2:43 PM, Michael Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Dave,
> >
> > I replaced my sliding hatch lock at a local locksmith store for $10.  It
> is called a plunger lock.  I believe that the link below is the same item
> featured by global industries:
> > http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/storage/Display-Store-
> Fixtures/Tables-Showcases-Counter-Di/plunger-lock?
> infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=Cj0KEQjw7dfKBRCdkKrvmfKtyeoBEi
> QAch0egRU99585nukbJB-Lo06b5pSzkMSxhjG--7hcFwOC1_YaAqNt8P8HAQ
> >
> > Mike
> > s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> > Nissequogue River, NY
> >
> >
> >
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