[Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant

Graham Stewart gstewart8 at cogeco.ca
Sun Jun 14 08:08:47 EDT 2020


Jesse:

If the diamond board does not have blocks for the line to pass through then your approach would seem to be much less problematic. 

If it doesn't work as expected and you have to put it on land or a lift you are no worse off so long as you are ready for that contingency. 

I wonder why the line is fraying so much. Perhaps you should replace it with something that is more abrasive resistant.

Graham Stewart
gstewart8 at cogeco.ca


-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Jesse Shumaker
Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2020 10:53 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant

Thanks for the info Charles and Graham.

I hope to avoid removing the centerboard cap and if it came to that then I
definitely would do it off the water based on Charles' advice.

To Graham's point, I've got a Triad trailer and have tried pulling the boat
onto the trailer successfully with the diamondboard extended so I should be
able to get the boat on the trailer if this goes poorly.

It was my understanding that the diamondboard design uses a straight
through pull that avoids going through any blocks.  Is that correct?

I suppose another option would be to wrap the line with some tape to avoid
additional fraying this season and then take it to the local sailboat shop
(which has a lift) at the end of the season to do the repair while the boat
is on the lift and the diamondboard can be extended.

Has anyone with a diamondboard (as opposed to the old centerboard design)
replaced their pendant?  I assume I'm not the only person whose pendant has
had significant wear.

On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:34 PM Charles Nieman <blue66corvette at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> I’m not certain if this is a good idea or not. But a word of safety, the
> center board cap is lower than the waterline. If you remove the cap while
> the boat is in the water you will test the total floatation system.
>
> Don’t ask me how I know.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> Charles Nieman
>
>
> > On Jun 13, 2020, at 9:25 PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
> >
> > Jesse:
> > I have the older centerboard so others might well have better advice.
> >
> > What you suggest should work. I have never tried to do this type of work
> while the boat was in the water. I have always had the boat on the trailer
> and removed the centerboard cap - which is, admittedly, a pita. The
> advantage of doing it with the cap removed is that you get to inspect the
> centerboard for damage and check all of the blocks to make sure they are
> still working properly. Mine were not.
> >
> > My line is 12' long. It passes through a series of blocks so that when
> the board is down it uses quite a bit more line than you might think. In
> your circumstance I would not use less than 12'. Don't overlook tying the
> bitter end of the new line inside the boat so that you don't pull the whole
> line through.
> >
> > Use the same thickness of line as is currently installed.
> >
> > Given that you must pass through a series of blocks the join between the
> lines should be strong and flexible.
> >
> >
> > If anything goes wrong - such as the line separating, you will want to
> have a backup plan to get the boat on its trailer while the board is down.
> Driving the boat onto the trailer should result in the board being lifted
> automatically by the keel roller but I would want to test this on your rig
> before committing to removing the line.
> >
> > Graham Stewart
> > gstewart8 at cogeco.ca
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On
> Behalf Of Jesse Shumaker
> > Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2020 9:21 PM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it.  It
> > appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) with
> > the direct pull line.  As you can see from the attached photos, the
> pendant
> > is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the
> way
> > through so I want to replace the line before that happens.  In the
> photos,
> > I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1"
> > from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it
> goes
> > in the hole.
> >
> > Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the boat a
> > few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard.
> > Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any
> > detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the
> keel.  I
> > can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on.
> >
> > From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 -
> 8'
> > line should be sufficient.  Does anyone recommend a specific type of
> line?
> >
> > Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant:
> > 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant
> > 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant
> > 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant
> > 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I get
> > to where the old and new pendant are attached
> > 5) Separate the new and old pendant
> > 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off
> > 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot
> >
> > Some additional thoughts:
> >
> > There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new
> > pendant will be an underwater adventure.  Considering the visibility
> level
> > in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel which
> > means it will take longer than I can hold my breath.  I'm going to see
> if I
> > can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club.
> >
> > To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small
> line
> > to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape.  It doesn't look
> > like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with a
> > knot and still have it fit through the hole.
> >
> > I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line
> and
> > then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below.
> >
> > Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the
> > diamondboard?
> >
> > Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Jesse Shumaker
> > S/V Zephyr
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