[Rhodes22-list] Converting Electric Winch Motor Lift to a Manual System

[ROGER PIHLAJA]

Hi All,

Given Stan’s proclivity for constant improvement, I don’t know if my GBI manual motor mount is “typical” or not.  Having said that, I can tell you my motor mount does not automatically tilt the motor at the top of its travel.   I have an extra long shaft Honda 8 hp outboard.  Unless I am hard on the wind on starboard tack, I do not have to tilt the motor up.  Even with the port rail in the water, the 1st detent on the motor’s tilt mechanism is sufficient to keep the lower unit out of the water.  Tilting the motor up to the 1st detent is pretty easy and you only need to do it on one point of sail if its blowing hard enough to bury the port rub rail.  Are you certain it’s worth all this effort to make the motor mount do this automatically?

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

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From: Peter Nyberg<mailto:peter at sunnybeeches.com>
Sent: Monday, September 7, 2020 9:50 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List<mailto:rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Converting Electric Winch Motor Lift to a Manual System

George,

I’m not sure if you’re saying that your think that the GBI manual lift did not have tilt, but after seeing the pictures, that’s the way it looks to me.  It’s hard to be sure though.  Again, maybe someone who knows could comment.

Anyway, inspired by this thread, I’ve spent a couple of days messing around with my manual outboard lift system, and ended up in about the same place that I started.

To go back to the beginning of converting the power outboard lift system to manual
lower blocks get attached to the tube already bolted to the thing the outboard is attached to (the thing that slides)
I attached upper blocks to the existing tubing that the winch strap goes over
Not enough room - more space is needed between upper and lower blocks for outboard to fully raise and tilt
I attached another section of stainless tubing to the forward most parts of the plastic supports for the lift system - just below the horizontal ’shelf’ at the top
I attached upper blocks to the new tubing, attached toward the outer edges to maximize distance from lower blocks
Upper block loop clamps are held in place with bolts into threaded holes in tubing
The original tubing is now in the way, and is removed
After the lifting line is routed through the two lower and two upper double blocks, it goes through a single block just below the ’shelf’, and then a block at the railing
I think I’ll be changing this final routing to just passing the line over the tubing to a cam cleat mounted below the ’shelf’

So in all George, very similar to what you’ve rigged.

I seem to be having technical difficulties, I’ll attempt to send pictures in a following email.

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016}



> On Sep 6, 2020, at 9:49 PM, Gmorganflier <gmorgan.flier at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Peter,
>
> I’ll be curious to see your update. The attached photo is the only one I
> have of the GBI manual lift. I wish there was some way to lift vertically,
> but still tilt at the top of travel. That’s an engineering problem with
> possibly no solution. My Mercury 9.9 Bigfoot is not easy to tilt by hand and
> I was trying to convert Stan’s invention to do it manually rather than with
> an electric winch.
>
> I think Stan is right about some previous owner doing something To my boat
> to throw the tracks out of alignment. I’ve got a lot of side to side play in
> my mount and there is a heavy duty metal beam across the bottom of the
> tracks which I’ve never seen on another R22. This is probably why my
> electric winch causes the scary noises coming from the transom as the motor
> gets toward the top.
>
> George Morgan
> S/V Knotty Lady
>
> <http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t909/CE271C98-F3A8-4398-BD90-0CA6ECD30198.jpeg>
>
>
>
> --
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