[Rhodes22-list] Furling headsail replacement

Sat Oct 23 08:27:30 EDT 2021

OK Peter,

Here is the experiment we discussed including the original photo attachment.  It will be interesting to see where Pipermail files this in the archives.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Hi Wilson,

It helps to make a checklist and follow it.  Do you have the GBI mast stepping system?  I am not strong enough to step/unstep the mast without this mechanical aid.  Stepping/unstopping the mast is faster if you have some helpers.  You save the rigging/unrigging time to setup the GBI mast stepping system.  But, if you are alone, the GBI mast stepping system makes it a safe, foolproof operation.

The attached picture shows the OEM standard cleat for the backstay adjuster.  This cleat is located on the transom in the starboard aft corner.  Also shown in the picture is my improved “Go Faster” backstay adjuster.  The backstay tension is the primary way to adjust forestay sag.  Forestay sag affects genoa sailshape.  You want to be able to adjust it quickly and reproducibly.  Here are the components of my backstay adjuster:

  1.  Harken 146  Single Big Bullet Block With Shackle
  2.  Harken 144 Swivel Base With 150 Cam-Matic Cam Cleat & Stand-Up Spring
  3.  10-24UNC X 1-1/2 Inch 18/8 Stainless Steel Flat Head Phillips Machine Screws, Fenders Washers, & Nylock Nuts – 4 Reqd

Instead of cleating the backstay adjuster off on the OEM standard horned cleat on the transom, rig it thru the Harken block and cam cleat.  Now, using a black magic marker, mark off every 6 inches on the backstay control line starting from when the backstay adjuster just starts to take up the slack in the forestay.  Now, you can reproducibly adjust the tension in the backstay with just a flick of the wrist and  a pull on the control line to the appropriate mark.  Note, the required backstay tension to eliminate forestay sag in heavy air is quite high.  I don’t like to leave the backstay tension that high when I leave the boat (think banana boat!).  So, I slack off the backstay adjuster when I’m not actually sailing.  Note, the Harken swivel base enables the helmsman to reach and adjust the backstay tension from any position in the cockpit.

This discussion actually belongs in the “Go Faster” &/or “Furling Headsail Replacement” threads because it is another go faster upgrade associated with the genoa.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

[cid:image002.jpg at 01D7C7E7.D0B71070]

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: ROGER PIHLAJA<mailto:roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2021 3:32 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List<mailto:rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Furling headsail replacement

Hi Michael,

S/V Dynamic Equilibrium has had a Harken Unit 0 roller furler since 1993.  If you are going to do this upgrade, get a roller furler that has the following features:

  1.  An aerodynamically shaped headfoil with twin luff grooves.
  2.  Independent upper and lower swivels
  3.  A low profile lower swivel assembly that doesn’t use up a lot of headsail luff length
  4.  Extensive use of Torlon ball &/or roller bearings throughout
  5.  An enclosed furling drum with a good fairlead to prevent furling control line snarls
  6.  Either an extruded, 1-piece, flexible, polymer headfoil or an extruded aluminum headfoil with individual, replaceable sections in case you damage one

Besides, the Harken roller furlers, there are many other quality units on the market that fulfill all these requirements.  I replaced my headstay as part of this project.  The Harken unit has been completely bulletproof and still spins as easily as a bicycle tire!  All the maintenance that’s required is an annual freshwater rinse for the bearings and the weekly anti spider flush on the furling drum.  Why do spiders like to build nests inside the furling drum?

Once you’ve installed the upgraded roller furler, you’re going to need a new headsail to take advantage of it.  Your new headsail should be:

  1.  Made of a composite material vs. dacron.  S/V Dynamic Equilibrium’s 150% genoa is made of Bainbridge’s Cruise-Lam composite sailcloth.  Cruise-Lam sailcloth is a 5 layer composite consisting of outer skins of dacron for abrasion, UV, and flogging resistance, Kevlar scrims (think mesh), and an inner core of mylar.  It’s been completely bulletproof and the sail shape still looks great!
  2.  Constructed with Bi-Radial or Tri-Radial panel layout.  S/V Dynamic Equiibrium’s 150% genoa is made with Bi-Radial panel layout.  But, with improvements in CAD assisted panel layout in the time since I purchased mine, I would probably opt for a Tri-Radial panel layout if I purchased it today.
  3.  Either have UV protective acrylic panels ( i.e. Sunbrella) sewn into the foot and leach or use a UV protective Sunbrella sleeve that is hauled up the furled headsail using an extra halyard when you are not using it.  Since S/V Dynamic Equilibrium is rigged to fly a tri-radial spinnaker and has the spare halyard, my boat has the protective sleeve.  I think the protective sleeve does a better job of protecting the head of the furled sail and the upper swivel assembly from the elements.  The genoa cover is installed as part of getting the boat ready to leave at the dock similar to snapping on the mainsail cover and is removed and stowed as part of the process of getting the boat ready to get underway.  S/V Dynamic Equilibrium also has a standard mainsail.  I choose the protective sleeve vs. the sewn-in panels to give the headsail better light air performance.  The sewn-in panels are heavy and can prevent the genoa from properly inflating in light air.
  4.  Has an appropriately sized luff tape that fits the grooves in your headsail foil
  5.  Has tensioning cords sewn into the foot and leach for fine adjustments of sail shape in the lower 1/3 of the sail and minimizing leech flutter
  6.  Has at least 3 windows sewn in up and down about 12 inches aft of the luff with windward/leeward tell tails sewn in
  7.  Has at least 3 leech tell tails sewn in up and down the sail
  8.  Has a foam luff pad and a sail shape that enables the upper and lower swivels to take up the extra draft as the sail is furled.  This feature is worthless unless your roller furler has upper and lower independent swivels.  But, it will dramatically increase the usable dynamic range of your roller furler.  In my opinion, without this feature, this project isn’t worth doing.

It’s an expensive project.  But, speed costs money.  How fast can you afford to go?  Yes, I know I’m out of control!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

Sent from Mail<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.microsoft.com%2Ffwlink%2F%3FLinkId%3D550986&data=04%7C01%7C%7C4f0f09784d644762060608d98f4968f8%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637698367742084508%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=oRA%2B2vVlSJ3BGCndh6XctEwkXNKD8T%2BTrKGYI4roT%2B4%3D&reserved=0> for Windows

From: Michael McKay<mailto:mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2021 12:21 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org<mailto:rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Furling headsail replacement

The recent threads regarding mainsails and racing performance issues prompts me to ask a question that’s been on my mind.

My boat has the factory furler, which requires me to drop the mast to remove the headsail.  I’d like the option of being able to change out my 130 for a working jib when appropriate for higher wind race days.

I’ve been contemplating replacing my furler with a CDI or Harken, but I believe I will need an additional halyard for that and my masthead doesn’t have an extra sheave. Has anyone done that replacement and could you share what your experience was?

Thanks,

Michael McKay
s/v Liber (2006/2018)

Sent from my iPhone

-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: 05060BC95DA245F182ADE21EDAE5A4D0.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 192766 bytes
Desc: 05060BC95DA245F182ADE21EDAE5A4D0.jpg
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20211023/2bb4f204/attachment.jpg>