[Rhodes22-list] Attaching the centerboard housing cap

Steven Alm stevenalm at gmail.com
Tue May 17 11:19:33 EDT 2022


Thanks for the clarification, Graham. That all makes a lot of sense. I too
tighten the cap down the way I learned to tighten the heads on a V8 —
starting from the middle. I tighten to what I feel is about 90% then start
over at the middle and give each one a final turn. I don't think you can
take too much care in this. In fact I'll be doing this very thing today. I
got all the fasteners in place and finger tight a couple days ago, then had
another task that took me off the boat, so I'll try to finish up today. I
hope to splash next week some time and avoid the Memorial Day crowds at the
ramp. I still have a perplexing electrical issue (not my strong suit at
all) but that can wait. I'll probably post some questions about that later.
Thanks again!

Slim
Fandango

On Mon, May 16, 2022 at 10:32 PM Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:

> Slim:
>
> You make good points that made me realize that I had omotted some detail
> that might be relevant.
>
> In my case I used a punch to cut clean but snug holes in the gasket for
> the bolts. I also used lock washers rather than lock nuts as I think it is
> easier to torque the nuts properly with the lock washers and they are
> certainly easier, and cheaper, to install. I prefer to tighten the nut
> rather than hold it and tighten the head but I don't know whether that
> actually makes any difference. Finally, I install all of the bolts loosely
> before tightening any of the nuts and when I do, I start at the centre and
> tighten them in sequence towards either end.
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile, Rodes 22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf
> Of Steven Alm
> Sent: Monday, May 16, 2022 6:02 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Attaching the centerboard housing cap
>
> Graham, thanks for the tip but the holes in my gasket are just snug enough
> so that I have to screw the bolts in. They won't just push through, so I
> don't think I could get them in from below. If I thought I'd be doing this
> much more I'd drill out the gasket holes a bit and then I could use
> your method for sure. It certainly is a challenge to get the washer on and
> then thread the nut on, especially on the ones at the back. And I'm using
> nylock nuts so you can only finger-tighten them a few turns. Then I get a
> box wrench on the nut below and use the ratchet on top. I haven't tried the
> drill torque clutch because some of them require more torque because of
> some of the gasket holes being so tight that it messes with the needed
> torque — and I want to be careful not to over tighten them so I baby each
> one carefully by hand. Definitely not something I want to do every day!!
>
> Slim
> Fandango
>
> On Mon, May 16, 2022 at 3:23 PM Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca>
> wrote:
>
> > Here is a simple suggestion that makes installing the housing cap bolts
> > easier.
> >
> > After installing the cap repeatedly, I found that if I used hex head
> bolts
> > and inserted them from below with the nuts on the top I could hold the
> > head easily with a box head wrench and then use an electric drill with a
> > torque adjustment to install the nuts. The torque adjustment can be set
> to
> > the level you need and then will tighten all of the nuts evenly and in
> > seconds. I would NOT use an impact driver as that might tighten the nuts
> > too much. Installing the bolts upside down was much easier than trying to
> > reach under the flange to thread the nuts on and then having very limited
> > room for the wrench to swing. Repeating that process 55 times can be a
> tad
> > frustrating to say the least. Just make sure that the bolts are not so
> long
> > that they hit the underside of the floor boards.
> >
> > Graham Stewart
> > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976
> > Kingston Ontario
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On
> Behalf
> > Of Steven Alm
> > Sent: Monday, May 16, 2022 3:52 PM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Zebra Mussel Mitigation
> >
> > The last time I had the board out 7 or 8 years ago to change out the
> > control line I did it with the mast down and couldn't fit the settee
> board
> > out the companionway. It made for some pretty cramped quarters to do the
> > work with it in the cabin. So this time I raised the mast and was able to
> > get everything out of my way to do this job which is already quite a
> bear.
> > without having all that stuff in the way. And yes, I could have wrestled
> > the board out myself without all that rigmarole and put up with a sore
> back
> > or been simpler to get a buddy to help but I like dreaming up ways to do
> > things "the easy way" even though the setup takes longer than anything.
> > Lol! By the way, the first time I did this I found the 60 or so fasteners
> > around the cap were Phillips head and I must have cursed Stan's name a
> > thousand times struggling to get those off. Of course I changed them out
> to
> > hex head and even though it's still a pretty tedious job, I'm happy as
> can
> > be to use a socket wrench this time.
> >
> > Slim
> > Fandango
> >
> > On Mon, May 16, 2022 at 1:09 PM Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > I think mine weighs 80 lbs so it is a struggle to lift and carry off
> the
> > > boat. I have never removed the centerboard when the mast was up. Neat
> > > design.
> > >
> > > Graham Stewart
> > > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976
> > > Kingston Ontario
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On
> > Behalf
> > > Of
> > > Lowe, Rob
> > > Sent: Monday, May 16, 2022 12:06 PM
> > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Zebra Mussel Mitigation
> > >
> > > Slim,
> > > Pretty interesting.  First time I can think of someone setting up a rig
> > for
> > > removing the centerboard.  How much does that thing weigh?  I wasn't
> sure
> > > if
> > > you could man handle it or not.  I hope your solution to the zebra
> > mussels
> > > works.  I'm thankful we don't have to deal with them (yet) where we
> sail.
> > >
> > > Rob
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> > > Steven
> > > Alm
> > > Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2022 2:35 PM
> > > To: Rhodes <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Zebra Mussel Mitigation
> > >
> > > I keep my boat on Lake Pepin which is actually The Mississippi River.
> > > Unfortunately it's become infested with zebra mussels in a big way.
> They
> > > got
> > > up inside the centerboard trunk and jammed up the board so bad it would
> > > hardly move up and down. At one point mid-season last year I hauled it
> > out
> > > on the marina's big travel lift and power sprayed up in the trunk as
> best
> > > we
> > > could and it was better for a while. I can't keep doing that though so
> I
> > > took the board out and painted it with anti-fouling ablative bottom
> > paint,
> > > counting on the fact that they can't attach to the paint. I was mostly
> > > unable to prep /sand the inside of the trunk to my satisfation but I
> did
> > > get
> > > three coats of paint down there with the weenie roller on a stick.
> > > The fun part was the trolly I fabricated to hook the block and tackle
> to,
> > > hoisted the board up and rolled it across the boom and out to the
> cockpit
> > > for prep and paint. Then hoisted it back up, rolled it back in and
> > lowered
> > > it into place. (see pictures) I'm counting on the bottom paint to solve
> > the
> > > problem. I truly hope not to be doing this again!!
> > >
> > > Slim
> > > Fandango
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