[Rhodes22-list] Attaching the centerboard housing cap

Joe Dempsey jpd9668 at gmail.com
Tue May 17 12:57:23 EDT 2022


I consulted the List and Stan during my project in 2019. I had suspected the gasket as a source for much of the water and dampness in the bilge.  I reported the following on replacing the CB gasket.

 

Removing the CB Cover and Gasket is fairly easy. General Boats specification calls for a ¼” x 1-1/4” -20 316 grade Stainless Steel Hex Bolt, locknut and 2 fender washers for each of 50+ holes. A previous owner had omitted the 100 fender washers. The gasket showed considerable dry rot and a hole in the middle of the gasket about 1” from the forward end of the cap. (Seen in the circular shaped stain in the top right photo).  There were rust stains around most of the screws, so they may not have been 316 Stainless. To my amazement, I found that the SS fasteners that West Marine sells are 8-18 grade. They are really unsuitable for the marine environment. For a few cents more, you can get 316 grade if you look for it.  I replaced all of the hardware with ¼” x 1-1/4” 316 SS Machine bolts, fender washers and lock nuts purchased from McMaster-Carr on line.

Upon removing the CB Cover. Remove the pendant tube and clamp. Lift the CB Cover and lay it upside down and take a photo of the pendant routing for reference when re-assembling. “Respite’s” CB is the original design (same shape as rudder) and originally was configured with the 4 block lift mechanism. It was changed at some point to a single mini-block on the CB routed directly from the forward bale in the raised portion of the CB Cover, through the block to the 1” rod in the aft of the cover and through the hole leading to the pendant tube to the cockpit. (See Sketch). Whoever did this conversion did a pretty sloppy job leaving two of the original mini blocks in a cluster at the bale where the pendant is tied off. The pendant was in good shape but configuration of the pulley system had been changed, most likely during “recycling” by General Boat. One of the original two mini blocks on the trailing edge of the CB had been eliminated and both of the two blocks in the trunk cap had been eliminated (although they were still present) I obtained a replacement gasket through Chris Cowie, a Rhodie at VoilierYachts in White Plains, MD.( If you want to buy your own gasket, purchase neoprene.) I took my CB cap to them so they could get the bolt holes properly aligned in the right pattern. Once I had the new gasket, re-assembly of the gasket and CB Cover was the reverse. I tightened the hex screws barely snug at first and then gradually tightening, side to side and then front to rear and finally snugging them down in the same sequence, taking care not to over tighten.(Do not tighten by alternating front to rear or there is a chance of a “bubble” occurring in the gasket.)  Once you launch for the first time, check for leaks and torque the bolts as necessary, but always allow for future tightening.  I’m in my third season (2021) and it hasn’t leaked a drop!  This is a good time to paint your bilge. I did so with Petit Bilge Paint. Be sure to completely clean, scrub a rub down the bilge with the solvent recommended by Petit. I used two coats allowing to dry according to the instructions.

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Steven Alm
Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2022 11:20 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Attaching the centerboard housing cap

 

Thanks for the clarification, Graham. That all makes a lot of sense. I too tighten the cap down the way I learned to tighten the heads on a V8 — starting from the middle. I tighten to what I feel is about 90% then start over at the middle and give each one a final turn. I don't think you can take too much care in this. In fact I'll be doing this very thing today. I got all the fasteners in place and finger tight a couple days ago, then had another task that took me off the boat, so I'll try to finish up today. I hope to splash next week some time and avoid the Memorial Day crowds at the ramp. I still have a perplexing electrical issue (not my strong suit at

all) but that can wait. I'll probably post some questions about that later.

Thanks again!

 

Slim

Fandango

 

On Mon, May 16, 2022 at 10:32 PM Graham Stewart < <mailto:gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:

 

> Slim:

> 

> You make good points that made me realize that I had omotted some 

> detail that might be relevant.

> 

> In my case I used a punch to cut clean but snug holes in the gasket 

> for the bolts. I also used lock washers rather than lock nuts as I 

> think it is easier to torque the nuts properly with the lock washers 

> and they are certainly easier, and cheaper, to install. I prefer to 

> tighten the nut rather than hold it and tighten the head but I don't 

> know whether that actually makes any difference. Finally, I install 

> all of the bolts loosely before tightening any of the nuts and when I 

> do, I start at the centre and tighten them in sequence towards either end.

> 

> Graham Stewart

> Agile, Rodes 22, 1976

> Kingston Ontario

> 

> 

> 

> 

> 

> 

> 

> -----Original Message-----

> From: Rhodes22-list [ <mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On 

> Behalf Of Steven Alm

> Sent: Monday, May 16, 2022 6:02 PM

> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List

> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Attaching the centerboard housing cap

> 

> Graham, thanks for the tip but the holes in my gasket are just snug 

> enough so that I have to screw the bolts in. They won't just push 

> through, so I don't think I could get them in from below. If I thought 

> I'd be doing this much more I'd drill out the gasket holes a bit and 

> then I could use your method for sure. It certainly is a challenge to 

> get the washer on and then thread the nut on, especially on the ones 

> at the back. And I'm using nylock nuts so you can only finger-tighten 

> them a few turns. Then I get a box wrench on the nut below and use the 

> ratchet on top. I haven't tried the drill torque clutch because some 

> of them require more torque because of some of the gasket holes being 

> so tight that it messes with the needed torque — and I want to be 

> careful not to over tighten them so I baby each one carefully by hand. Definitely not something I want to do every day!!

> 

> Slim

> Fandango

> 

> On Mon, May 16, 2022 at 3:23 PM Graham Stewart < <mailto:gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> gstewart8 at cogeco.ca>

> wrote:

> 

> > Here is a simple suggestion that makes installing the housing cap 

> > bolts easier.

> >

> > After installing the cap repeatedly, I found that if I used hex head

> bolts

> > and inserted them from below with the nuts on the top I could hold 

> > the head easily with a box head wrench and then use an electric 

> > drill with a torque adjustment to install the nuts. The torque 

> > adjustment can be set

> to

> > the level you need and then will tighten all of the nuts evenly and 

> > in seconds. I would NOT use an impact driver as that might tighten 

> > the nuts too much. Installing the bolts upside down was much easier 

> > than trying to reach under the flange to thread the nuts on and then 

> > having very limited room for the wrench to swing. Repeating that 

> > process 55 times can be a

> tad

> > frustrating to say the least. Just make sure that the bolts are not 

> > so

> long

> > that they hit the underside of the floor boards.

> >

> > Graham Stewart

> > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976

> > Kingston Ontario

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > -----Original Message-----

> > From: Rhodes22-list [ <mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On

> Behalf

> > Of Steven Alm

> > Sent: Monday, May 16, 2022 3:52 PM

> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List

> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Zebra Mussel Mitigation

> >

> > The last time I had the board out 7 or 8 years ago to change out the 

> > control line I did it with the mast down and couldn't fit the settee

> board

> > out the companionway. It made for some pretty cramped quarters to do 

> > the work with it in the cabin. So this time I raised the mast and 

> > was able to get everything out of my way to do this job which is 

> > already quite a

> bear.

> > without having all that stuff in the way. And yes, I could have 

> > wrestled the board out myself without all that rigmarole and put up 

> > with a sore

> back

> > or been simpler to get a buddy to help but I like dreaming up ways 

> > to do things "the easy way" even though the setup takes longer than anything.

> > Lol! By the way, the first time I did this I found the 60 or so 

> > fasteners around the cap were Phillips head and I must have cursed 

> > Stan's name a thousand times struggling to get those off. Of course 

> > I changed them out

> to

> > hex head and even though it's still a pretty tedious job, I'm happy 

> > as

> can

> > be to use a socket wrench this time.

> >

> > Slim

> > Fandango

> >

> > On Mon, May 16, 2022 at 1:09 PM Graham Stewart < <mailto:gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> gstewart8 at cogeco.ca>

> > wrote:

> >

> > > I think mine weighs 80 lbs so it is a struggle to lift and carry 

> > > off

> the

> > > boat. I have never removed the centerboard when the mast was up. 

> > > Neat design.

> > >

> > > Graham Stewart

> > > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976

> > > Kingston Ontario

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > -----Original Message-----

> > > From: Rhodes22-list [ <mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On

> > Behalf

> > > Of

> > > Lowe, Rob

> > > Sent: Monday, May 16, 2022 12:06 PM

> > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List

> > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Zebra Mussel Mitigation

> > >

> > > Slim,

> > > Pretty interesting.  First time I can think of someone setting up 

> > > a rig

> > for

> > > removing the centerboard.  How much does that thing weigh?  I 

> > > wasn't

> sure

> > > if

> > > you could man handle it or not.  I hope your solution to the zebra

> > mussels

> > > works.  I'm thankful we don't have to deal with them (yet) where 

> > > we

> sail.

> > >

> > > Rob

> > >

> > > -----Original Message-----

> > > From: Rhodes22-list < <mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf 

> > > Of Steven Alm

> > > Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2022 2:35 PM

> > > To: Rhodes < <mailto:rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>

> > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Zebra Mussel Mitigation

> > >

> > > I keep my boat on Lake Pepin which is actually The Mississippi River.

> > > Unfortunately it's become infested with zebra mussels in a big way.

> They

> > > got

> > > up inside the centerboard trunk and jammed up the board so bad it 

> > > would hardly move up and down. At one point mid-season last year I 

> > > hauled it

> > out

> > > on the marina's big travel lift and power sprayed up in the trunk 

> > > as

> best

> > > we

> > > could and it was better for a while. I can't keep doing that 

> > > though so

> I

> > > took the board out and painted it with anti-fouling ablative 

> > > bottom

> > paint,

> > > counting on the fact that they can't attach to the paint. I was 

> > > mostly unable to prep /sand the inside of the trunk to my 

> > > satisfation but I

> did

> > > get

> > > three coats of paint down there with the weenie roller on a stick.

> > > The fun part was the trolly I fabricated to hook the block and 

> > > tackle

> to,

> > > hoisted the board up and rolled it across the boom and out to the

> cockpit

> > > for prep and paint. Then hoisted it back up, rolled it back in and

> > lowered

> > > it into place. (see pictures) I'm counting on the bottom paint to 

> > > solve

> > the

> > > problem. I truly hope not to be doing this again!!

> > >

> > > Slim

> > > Fandango

> > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was 

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> > >

> >

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