[Rhodes22-list] tiller refinishing

[Jay Friedland]

Bruce-
UPS I'll try to address soon, but a quick response on refinishing 
includes resourcinol (waterproof adhesive for layers) or epoxy for 
layer separation. My original tiller separated near the rudder head 
connection.  To significantly reinforce the laminated layers, I 
overdrilled two 3/8" holes, vertically from the bottom of the tiller to 
just below the top (for cosmetic reasons) fore and aft about 3/4" away 
from the hole for the through bolt to the rudder head. I used a 1/4" 
dowel and epoxy to fill the holes.

 From here, I will offer the extensive details of Wally Buck's comments 
from last year that helped me refinish mine to the point where annual 
touch ups are the only things needed to keep it in prime shape. Mine 
has never been covered, and is exposed 11 months and otherwise used 
hard. CPES is a cold weather formula Penetrating Epoxy Sealer available 
from <http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/product.html>.

"What I like about CPES is that you only need to mix two parts. CPES is 
not thick, it is thinner than most paints. It is also just a sealant, 
not a filler or adhesive. I painted my whole tiller from end to end 
with CPES after getting down to bare wood.

You can seal screw holes without syringe; just use a wet brush and let 
it flow in the holes. The wood really soaks this stuff up. After CPES 
dries; if needed you then fill holes with just about an epoxy/filler 
product, sand, then varnish. Just consider CPES a primer coat, once set 
make repairs, paint, or varnish as normal.

This stuff is toxic, be careful! Also I ordered via the net, no local 
source. It is kind of pricey but I have a wooden boat in addition to 
the Rhodes 22. I have a bunch of uses for this stuff not just the 
tiller.'

'A little goes a long way; the first time I mixed way too much. I would 
order smallest size they had and make small batches. Unless you have 
some water damage one coat usually covers fine. I bet I didn't use more 
than three ounces total for the tiller. I used two coats on the tiller 
because I had some seperation of layers. I was hoping to seal the 
layers better than previous owners attempt.

When I redid my hatch I used one coat of CPES then varnish. After one 
season it is still fine, I would expect it to last several more. I had 
a little bit of soft wood on the edges of the hatch. After a coat of 
CPES the soft edges were hard. I finished with varnish. It is well 
sealed. The rest of my teak trim is bare; only teak oil. I haven't 
figured out what if anything I want to cover the teak with.'

'I am glad your results matched mine. This stuff really does what it is 
supposed to do. I read the web info and wasn't really sure if it was 
all hype, I had always used West products. When I lurked on a wooden 
boat forum CPES had great reviews from dozens of guys rebuilding boats. 
I still haven't finished my first order. But I will be using some in 
the next week or so.

I discovered water was leaking into my cockpit floor via the table 
mount. I am now drying out the wooden core, there is some damage but 
the wood does not need to be replaced. I drilled several small holes 
and flushed acetone into the wood. When it is dry I have the injection 
kit for the CPES. I will shoot that into all the holes and let set. 
Then I am going to use a Layup and laminating resin with fine wood 
shavings. I did this same thing on my wooden sailboat and it worked 
great."



On Monday, January 19, 2004, at 02:23  PM, bgreenwald at optonline.net 
wrote:

> I am in the process of refinishing my tiller and, in anticipation of 
> putting  the hardware back together when i am done i have one minor 
> question.  I noticed that the "wide" end of the tiller extension pin 
> (where it fits thu the tiller)  was sealed - not all that well - with 
> some kind of semi-clear/whitish caulking.  Does anyone have a 
> suggestion as to the proper sealant to use to keep water from 
> penetrating into the tiller?  Thanks in advance.
>
> Bruce Greenwald
> S/V Ruach II
>
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