[Rhodes22-list] OB Motors ( for Rummy)

ftugwell at cox.net ftugwell at cox.net
Tue Jun 22 08:52:58 EDT 2010


On Saturday I was single-handing my Rhodes on the Potomac with good 
winds (around 15 k) and when I decided to return to port, the engine 
would not drop--in fact, nothing happened when I pressed the remote 
(this is new) button to lower the lift.  I called Stan, who went through 
all the alternatives with me: a) checking the connections on the busbar 
in the laz, and on the battery; b) reading the instructions to find the 
release for the motor; and c) in an emergency situation, cutting the 
strap while holding the motor up with a line so that it does not drop. 
We had already determined that there was still power, since my 
instruments were all working.  I was in the middle of the channel with 
lots of boats zooming around and a good wind, so I decided to go back to 
the marina area and anchor to check things out.  Since it was relatively 
easy, I did reach in the laz and, to my surprise, I found a loose nut 
connection. (not a wire nut, just a nut)  After I tightened it, the 
motor lift worked.  Many thanks to Stan for walking me through this on 
my new boat.  An aside: no surveyor will approve a boat for sale if it 
has wire nuts.  these are not for marine use.


On Tue, Jun 22, 2010 at 8:08 AM, Joe Camp wrote:

> Rummy and Chris:
>  
>      There seems to be a Freudian undertone in all of this "nut" talk. 
> Can we switch to something more directly phallic, like "raising the 
> mast?"  Just a thought, but let's not hide our true natures...men.
>  
> Joe
> --- On Tue, 6/22/10, R22RumRunner at aol.com  wrote:
>
>
> From: R22RumRunner at aol.com Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] OB Motors ( 
> for Rummy)
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Date: Tuesday, June 22, 2010, 7:57 AM
>
>
> Wire nuts are not for marine use. I prefer soldered connections with 
> shrink tubing and then a layer of liquid electrical tape. I'm glad we 
> dug a little  deeper into this subject.
>
> Rummy
>
>
> In a message dated 6/21/2010 1:35:40 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
> ccowie at cowieassociates.com writes:
>
> Thanks  for the advice.  The nuts I was referring to are not the wing 
> nuts on the  battery rather control wires from the outboard lift 
> switch have wire nuts that  seem to come a bit loose every now and 
> then.  I plan to replace them with  a better quality crimp but joint.
>
> Christopher P. Cowie   
>
>
> 4400 MacArthur Blvd, NW Suite 300 Washington,  DC  20007 202.342.2711 
> 202.342.2691 fax 202.270.1470 mobile 
> [ccowie at cowieassociates.com]
> cowieassociates.com
>
>
> -----Original  Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org  
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Michael D.  
> Weisner
> Sent: Monday, June 21, 2010 8:42 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email  List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] OB Motors ( for Rummy)
>
> Strictly  speaking, wire nuts are not a good choice in a marine 
> environment since  they do not form a gas-tight joint.  You should use 
> solder or crimped  butt joints for more trouble free permanent wiring 
> solutions.  If you  wish to use wire nuts, simply make them gas-tight 
> by adding a dielectric  grease to block corrosion during assembly of 
> the joint.  Loctite  makes a good quality grease which is available 
> just about everywhere (MSC  Direct is a great source for this, 
> stainless fasteners, tubing,  etc,):
> http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=3108381&PMT4NO=87953202
>
> If  you are in a salt environment, stay away from the conductive 
> "passivated"  greases (zinc or copper added) as they have been thought 
> to cause some  galvanic activity that can degrade the wire joint.  
> They're also a  bit more costly.
>
> If you want to try an old solution for the  corrosion that usually 
> works, just paint some Vasoline around the joint to  block corrosive 
> vapors.  It may not be hi-tech but it has worked well  for years.
>
> Make sure that the wires are real clean before joining, use  a NEW 
> wire nut and paint some grease on for protection and your joints  
> should last several seasons without trouble.
>
> Mike
> s/v Shanghai'd  Summer ('81)
> Nissequogue River, NY
>
>
> From:   Monday, June 21, 2010 7:07 AM
>> The nuts  are fine. You probably need to clean the copper connectors 
>> on
> the
>>   battery and the cable and tighten a little tighter than hand tight. 
>> Use 
> a
>> small  pair of pliers.
>>
>>   Rummy
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 6/20/2010 8:34:51 P.M.  Eastern Daylight Time,
>> ccowie at cowieassociates.com  writes:
>>
>> My 2009  has a long shaft and electric  lift.  Stays in the water 
>> during
>> high seas on the Chesapeake bay  and doesn't drag when 
>> lifted.   Motor
>> casing touches the  rail in the raised and tilted  position.  I have 
>> a
>> yamaha 8  hp run the carberator dry and  flush the cooling system 
>> with
>>   fresh water after each use.  Runs  great so far.  The only  trouble 
>> so
>> far has been the electric  switch looses power every  now and then in
>> the down position.   Solution is to grab the  wire nuts in the laz 
>> and
>> give them a  sqeeze.  Kind of like  kicking a computer when it 
>> doesn't
>> work.  I'm pretty sure wire  nut connections on a boat are not a  
>> good
>> idea and I should  replace them.
>>
>> Chris Cowie
>> Cowie  Associates  PC
>>
>>
>> On Jun 20, 2010, at 5:17 PM,  "R22RumRunner at aol.com>>>   wrote:
>>
>>> Joe,
>>> Again, it  depends on the  lift. If you are getting the standard
>>> (non-motorized)  lift,  you will want the long shaft and deal with 
>>> an
>>>    occasional  drag.
>>> (Maybe)You can tilt the motor once all the  way  up.  It's not a big
>>> deal. But
>>> you want  to  keep the prop in the water while the engine 
>>> is   running.
>>>
>>>    Rummy
>>>
>>>
>>> In a message dated 6/20/2010 4:00:55  P.M.  Eastern Daylight Time,
>>> jjcampjr at yahoo.com  writes:
>>>
>>>   Rummy:
>>> I'll have the 7:1  lift. I do not get the boat until July   28; I
>>>   believe
>>> it's manual, but I don't know for  sure.   Really, if the 20"  is
>>> going to
>>>   cavitate, I  have no control over that. It does what it does,
>>> right?  What  length
>>> shaft do most Rhodes owners  use?   Thaks.
>>> Joe
>>>
>>>
>>> --- On Sun,  6/20/10,  R22RumRunner at aol.com   
>>>   wrote:
>>>
>>>   From: R22RumRunner at aol.com    Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] 
>>> OB   Motors
>>> To:  rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
>>> Date:  Sunday, June  20, 2010, 3:31  PM
>>>
>>>   Also,
>>> Cavitation is not good  for an outboard motor. It is  hard on  the
>>>   cooling
>>> impeller (doesn't like  running dry) and has been known   to twist 
>>> or
>>>   snap
>>> crank
>>>   shafts.
>>>
>>>   Rummy
>>>
>>>
>>> In a message  dated   6/20/2010 1:22:54 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>>>   jjcampjr at yahoo.com  writes:
>>>
>>> John:
>>> The  cavitating is something I  can  live with. OTOH (to  borrow  a
>>> wonderful
>>> acronym  from you) the  added  drag when heeling to port would  be a
>>> PITA (to
>>>   borrow a  wonderful acronym from Stan).  I  hadn't  considered  
>>> that,
>>> and
>>> your
>>>   advice  has made my decision far easier.
>>>   Joe
>>>
>>> ---  On  Sun,  6/20/10, John Lock    wrote:
>>>
>>>   From:   John Lock    Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list]   OB  Motors
>>> To: "The  Rhodes 22 Email List"     
>>> Date: Sunday, June 20,  2010,  12:00   PM
>>>
>>> Longer shaft will  cavitate less in rough  seas under  power.    
>>> OTOH,
>>> longer shaft may drag the  prop in the  water when  heeled over  to 
>>> port
>>> under    sail.
>>>
>>> Cheers!
>>> John   Lock
>>>   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>> s/v Pandion -  '79  Rhodes 22
>>> Lake  Sinclair,  GA
>>>   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>>
>>>
>>> On   Jun 20,  2010, at 10:45, Joe Camp  wrote:
>>>> Hello; here's a   probably  easy question:  In the realm of  
>>>> long   
> shaft
>>>> OB  motors, would a 25" shaft have any  advantage  over  a 20"  
>>>> shaft?
>>>>   Thanks.
>>>> Joe Camp  (poem    included)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>       Old  Scar
>>>>
>>>>      JJ   Camp
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>   You whisper to me  with   every
>>>>
>>>>   fleeting  glimpse:
>>>>
>>>> Accusation!   Guilt!   Reasons!
>>>>
>>>> you should not  be
>>>>
>>>>   like a  snake,   running
>>>>
>>>> up my arm on one  side,   down
>>>>
>>>> the other,    looking
>>>>
>>>> for a hole to    hide
>>>>
>>>> you from mongoose    eyes
>>>>
>>>> that know  your   genesis
>>>>
>>>> in my reckless     past.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>   Twenty-plus years  have   faded
>>>>
>>>>   you, almost to the color of  flesh
>>>>
>>>>   you  used to be  before
>>>>
>>>> they laid me  down,
>>>>
>>>>   opened me  up to  bleed
>>>>
>>>> out the bad    medicine
>>>>
>>>> I    remember!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>   So  I never use  that  hand
>>>>
>>>> to  lift my whiskey   anymore.
>>>>
>>>>   Some  lessons,
>>>>
>>>> I  refuse to  learn  through pain
>>>>     2000
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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