[Rhodes22-list] How bad is my CB plate?

[The Rhodes 22 Email List]

I would try to buy a new cap first.  If Stan wont sell you one then you have to try and fix it.  Perhaps just repair the damage as best as you can then use 3M 4200 sealant (it is removable unlike 5200) put a copious bead around inside the bolt lines.  Put stainless bolts and washers all around tighten just enough to start compressing the bead of sealant. And call it a day.  I bet its just as likely to seal as a new cap and neoprene flange.
Bob

> On Jan 18, 2015, at 10:48 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> I see three problems with this approach to flowing on a epoxy resin surface.
> First, the trunk flange would have to be absolutely level or the epoxy would
> be much thicker at one side or end than the other. Getting the boat adjusted
> so that the trunk top is perfectly level would be very difficult. Second,
> the cap will not likely be perfectly flat. Even if you get it level, if it
> isn't flat the resin will just run off. Applying a paste to the cap flange
> and clamping it to a flat surface flattens the cap flange and creates a
> perfectly flat surface. Third, epoxy resin by itself is not nearly as strong
> as when it has an appropriate filler.
> 
> Graham 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
> List
> Sent: January-18-15 10:22 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How bad is my CB plate?
> 
> I believe you could repair this problem.  A friend of mine always says "you
> can make ANYthing out of fiberglass except money!"
> The gelcoat must go! If you want a smooth and level surface for your
> neoprene gasket consider this.  Fill and grind each surface as flat
> possible.  Fill the holes with resin.  Grind out cracks bigger so the resin
> can get in there. Any gaps bigger than say 1/4" need a bit of fiberglass
> cloth stuffed inside.  Sand as smooth as possible the set level, make a
> little dam all around with tape then pour resin with hardener for a slow
> set. If properly done this will give a super flat shiny surface.  Do the
> same with the cap but it is set upside down.  Try not to get the depth of
> that resin pour more than 1/4". You prob will still have to sand this clear
> resin layer but you can go up in grit and even polish it smooth with a
> buffer.
> 
>>> On Jan 18, 2015, at 8:52 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List
>> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> Graham,
>> 
>> I have been doing a lot of reading recently on fiberglass repair. And you
> are correct in regards to making sure the mould release agent is gone,  but
> the two different authors i have read state that you just have to give the
> gel coat some teeth to hold the new epoxy.  They suggest sanding lightly
> with 100 grit paper. 
>> 
>> They both state that extra material should be removed any place that is
> cracked by grinding it into a shallow 'V'. One recommends using using 'chop'
> as the material to fill it with then saturated with epoxy. 
>> 
>> The other days that pretty much any fiberglass material will work for
> fill. 
>> 
>> James
>> 
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>> 
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