[Rhodes22-list] Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4399, Issue 1

Stephen CongdonCLU sjcclu at msn.com
Wed Dec 15 12:42:32 EST 2021


for what it's worth department::
based on Sandusky bay, we used a 36 volt trolling motor on our 1979 R22

we used a small triple block on the original light weight motor mount,
and mounted the batteries forward
where the original water tank was fitted
Results : quiet and powerful
yes she seemed to sail better with that mass shifted forward
never a suggestion of water coming up the cockpit drain
Merry Christmas to all


Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Update on IMF outhaul/furling running rigging changes
      made over the winter (Peter Nyberg)
   2. Re: Update on IMF outhaul/furling running rigging changes
      made over the winter (Reuben Mezrich)
   3. Re: Update on IMF outhaul/furling running rigging changes
      made over the winter (Jesse Shumaker)
   4. Re: Update on IMF outhaul/furling running rigging changes
      made over the winter (Reuben Mezrich)
   5. RHODES 22 CAPS (Joedempsey at hughes.net)
   6. Re: Update on IMF outhaul/furling running rigging changes
      made over the winter (Peter Nyberg)
   7. Re: Update on IMF outhaul/furling running rigging changes
      made over the winter (Reuben Mezrich)
   8. Re: RHODES 22 CAPS (Frank Goldsmith)
   9. Re: Update on IMF outhaul/furling running rigging changes
      made over the winter (Jesse Shumaker)
  10. Re: Update on IMF outhaul/furling running rigging changes
      made over the winter (Reuben Mezrich)
  11. Re: Update on IMF outhaul/furling running rigging changes
      made over the winter (Peter Nyberg)
  12. Re: Update on IMF outhaul/furling running rigging changes
      made over the winter (Jesse Shumaker)
  13. Re: Update on IMF outhaul/furling running rigging changes
      made over the winter (Reuben Mezrich)
  14. Re: Update on IMF outhaul/furling running rigging changes
      made over the winter (Jesse Shumaker)
  15. Re: Update on IMF outhaul/furling running rigging changes
      made over the winter (Michael McKay)
  16. Progress (Mark Whipple)
  17. Mounting an electric motor (Frank Goldsmith)
  18. Re: Progress (Peter Nyberg)
  19. Re: Mounting an electric motor (Peter Nyberg)
  20. Re: Mounting an electric motor (Frank Goldsmith)
  21. Re: Mounting an electric motor (Shawn Boles)
  22. Re: Progress (Reuben Mezrich)
  23. Re: Mounting an electric motor (Reuben Mezrich)
  24. Re: Mounting an electric motor (Frank Goldsmith)
  25. Re: Mounting an electric motor (ROGER PIHLAJA)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 06 Dec 2021 08:09:42 -0800
From: Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Update on IMF outhaul/furling running
        rigging changes made over the winter
Message-ID: <E1muGYg-00BwbS-8A at s152.servername.online>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

Reuben,

The exit block I used was a 'Harken 29mm Thru-Deck Bullet Block' (Harken model #287, Defender item #604915).  This mounts to the boom with a screw or bolt at each end.  I made a new slot in the boom for it because the existing slot was too long.

The blocks at the mast were sized for 1/4" line.

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)

> On 2021-12-06, at 09:43:46 EST, Reuben Mezrich wrote:
>
> Jesse
> I'm planning on making the same rigging changes you described for the furling
> and unfurling lines and have a few questions.
> Peter Nyborg cut a new hole in the underside of the boom to place an exit block
> for the furling line. Did you do that or just add an exit block to the hole
> that's already there (which would be my preferred approach) Do you remember
> which exit block you used?
> Do you remember what size blocks you used, both for the lines coming along the
> mast and then at the base of the mast?
> Thanks in advance
> --Reuben
> Reuben Mezrich
> Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Back Bay, Boston
> Cell: 410-499-8922
>
>
>



------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2021 11:15:14 -0500
From: Reuben Mezrich <reuben.mezrich at gmail.com>
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Update on IMF outhaul/furling running
        rigging changes made over the winter
Message-ID:
        <CAHrO9msPSDJU30nypHJSwD-JThKAQ0hAfOX4C-1WRpPKP8NaNg at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Peter
Thanks for the quick detailed response
I'll get to work
--Reuben
Reuben Mezrich
Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Back Bay, Boston
Cell: 410-499-8922


On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 11:10 AM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

> Reuben,
>
> The exit block I used was a 'Harken 29mm Thru-Deck Bullet Block' (Harken
> model #287, Defender item #604915).  This mounts to the boom with a screw
> or bolt at each end.  I made a new slot in the boom for it because the
> existing slot was too long.
>
> The blocks at the mast were sized for 1/4" line.
>
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>
> > On 2021-12-06, at 09:43:46 EST, Reuben Mezrich wrote:
> >
> > Jesse
> > I'm planning on making the same rigging changes you described for the
> furling
> > and unfurling lines and have a few questions.
> > Peter Nyborg cut a new hole in the underside of the boom to place an
> exit block
> > for the furling line. Did you do that or just add an exit block to the
> hole
> > that's already there (which would be my preferred approach) Do you
> remember
> > which exit block you used?
> > Do you remember what size blocks you used, both for the lines coming
> along the
> > mast and then at the base of the mast?
> > Thanks in advance
> > --Reuben
> > Reuben Mezrich
> > Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Back Bay, Boston
> > Cell: 410-499-8922
> >
> >
> >
>
>

------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2021 19:55:07 -0600
From: Jesse Shumaker <jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com>
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Update on IMF outhaul/furling running
        rigging changes made over the winter
Message-ID:
        <CAMc-3foHMXj_b=MG0qv03QSUHw8umXhnhQycxawe+zqcA1HJeQ at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Hi Reuben,

It looks like Peter covered your questions about the blocks.  Like Peter, I
cut a new slot in the boom for the exit block.  I used a Dremel with a
grinder bit to accomplish that.  I used pop rivets to attach the exit block
to the boom.  I included some photos and a brief description of the rigging
changes I made on page 20 of the following document:
https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fdocument.html%3Fdocuments%2FZephyr%2520Projects%2520%26%2520Boat%2520Tour.pdf&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cfaf9ed5255864e8ba03108d9bfcd83c0%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637751711680004484%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000&sdata=BjNiOSpEx%2FzxqzRHAfiOodVlc4qyvT5WvPpRnLE5%2F60%3D&reserved=0

Good luck and please let us know how it comes together!

Jesse Shumaker
S/V Zephyr


On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 10:15 AM Reuben Mezrich <reuben.mezrich at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Peter
> Thanks for the quick detailed response
> I'll get to work
> --Reuben
> Reuben Mezrich
> Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Back Bay, Boston
> Cell: 410-499-8922
>
>
> On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 11:10 AM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Reuben,
> >
> > The exit block I used was a 'Harken 29mm Thru-Deck Bullet Block' (Harken
> > model #287, Defender item #604915).  This mounts to the boom with a screw
> > or bolt at each end.  I made a new slot in the boom for it because the
> > existing slot was too long.
> >
> > The blocks at the mast were sized for 1/4" line.
> >
> > Peter Nyberg
> > Coventry, CT
> > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> >
> > > On 2021-12-06, at 09:43:46 EST, Reuben Mezrich wrote:
> > >
> > > Jesse
> > > I'm planning on making the same rigging changes you described for the
> > furling
> > > and unfurling lines and have a few questions.
> > > Peter Nyborg cut a new hole in the underside of the boom to place an
> > exit block
> > > for the furling line. Did you do that or just add an exit block to the
> > hole
> > > that's already there (which would be my preferred approach) Do you
> > remember
> > > which exit block you used?
> > > Do you remember what size blocks you used, both for the lines coming
> > along the
> > > mast and then at the base of the mast?
> > > Thanks in advance
> > > --Reuben
> > > Reuben Mezrich
> > > Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Back Bay, Boston
> > > Cell: 410-499-8922
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>

------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2021 01:40:55 -0500
From: Reuben Mezrich <reuben.mezrich at gmail.com>
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Update on IMF outhaul/furling running
        rigging changes made over the winter
Message-ID:
        <CAHrO9mvQTBOw1H9VcxA0bVV6kcf6KyRKf5-AgFwfk1cYbdQ15g at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

If I might ask two more questions....
What kind and size block is used at the end of the mast to turn the outhaul
line back to the mast?
If screws are used to hold it....what size?
Thanks
--Reuben
Reuben Mezrich
Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Back Bay, Boston
Cell: 410-499-8922


On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 8:55 PM Jesse Shumaker <
jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Reuben,
>
> It looks like Peter covered your questions about the blocks.  Like Peter, I
> cut a new slot in the boom for the exit block.  I used a Dremel with a
> grinder bit to accomplish that.  I used pop rivets to attach the exit block
> to the boom.  I included some photos and a brief description of the rigging
> changes I made on page 20 of the following document:
>
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fdocument.html%3Fdocuments%2FZephyr%2520Projects%2520%26%2520Boat%2520Tour.pdf&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cfaf9ed5255864e8ba03108d9bfcd83c0%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637751711680004484%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000&sdata=BjNiOSpEx%2FzxqzRHAfiOodVlc4qyvT5WvPpRnLE5%2F60%3D&reserved=0
>
> Good luck and please let us know how it comes together!
>
> Jesse Shumaker
> S/V Zephyr
>
>
> On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 10:15 AM Reuben Mezrich <reuben.mezrich at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Peter
> > Thanks for the quick detailed response
> > I'll get to work
> > --Reuben
> > Reuben Mezrich
> > Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Back Bay, Boston
> > Cell: 410-499-8922
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 11:10 AM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Reuben,
> > >
> > > The exit block I used was a 'Harken 29mm Thru-Deck Bullet Block'
> (Harken
> > > model #287, Defender item #604915).  This mounts to the boom with a
> screw
> > > or bolt at each end.  I made a new slot in the boom for it because the
> > > existing slot was too long.
> > >
> > > The blocks at the mast were sized for 1/4" line.
> > >
> > > Peter Nyberg
> > > Coventry, CT
> > > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> > >
> > > > On 2021-12-06, at 09:43:46 EST, Reuben Mezrich wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Jesse
> > > > I'm planning on making the same rigging changes you described for the
> > > furling
> > > > and unfurling lines and have a few questions.
> > > > Peter Nyborg cut a new hole in the underside of the boom to place an
> > > exit block
> > > > for the furling line. Did you do that or just add an exit block to
> the
> > > hole
> > > > that's already there (which would be my preferred approach) Do you
> > > remember
> > > > which exit block you used?
> > > > Do you remember what size blocks you used, both for the lines coming
> > > along the
> > > > mast and then at the base of the mast?
> > > > Thanks in advance
> > > > --Reuben
> > > > Reuben Mezrich
> > > > Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Back Bay, Boston
> > > > Cell: 410-499-8922
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>

------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2021 14:43:17 -0500
From: <Joedempsey at hughes.net>
To: <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] RHODES 22 CAPS
Message-ID: <027f01d7eba2$b3a47d90$1aed78b0$@hughes.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

A bunch of you guys have just ordered Rhodes 22 caps so I'm getting ready to
place an order. If you wish to add to the order, get your request in to me
now. It will speed up your delivery. Offline at joedempsey at hughes.net
<mailto:joedempsey at hughes.net> .  Hope everyone likes them.



------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Tue, 07 Dec 2021 13:11:10 -0800
From: Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Update on IMF outhaul/furling running
        rigging changes made over the winter
Message-ID: <E1muhjy-009pQE-6S at s152.servername.online>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

Reuben,

The block at the end of the boom is a cheek block.  I'm pretty sure the specific model is a Ronstan 20mm (Ronstan model #RF20151, Defender item #614283).  I don't recall the size of the screws used.  I'd guess #6, but it might have been #8.  Length would be 1/2" or 3/4".  Using screws a bit longer than necessary in this location wouldn't adversely affect anything.

--Peter

> On 2021-12-07, at 01:40:55 EST, Reuben Mezrich wrote:
>
> If I might ask two more questions....
> What kind and size block is used at the end of the mast to turn the outhaul line
> back to the mast?
> If screws are used to hold it....what size?
> Thanks
> --Reuben
> Reuben Mezrich
> Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Back Bay, Boston
> Cell: 410-499-8922
>
>
>



------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2021 16:38:46 -0500
From: Reuben Mezrich <reuben.mezrich at gmail.com>
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Update on IMF outhaul/furling running
        rigging changes made over the winter
Message-ID: <FAF5BA7C-1606-449E-80B7-6564C9C519EA at gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Thanks again

Reuben Mezrich
Cell: 410-499-8922

> On Dec 7, 2021, at 4:11 PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>
> ?Reuben,
>
> The block at the end of the boom is a cheek block.  I'm pretty sure the specific model is a Ronstan 20mm (Ronstan model #RF20151, Defender item #614283).  I don't recall the size of the screws used.  I'd guess #6, but it might have been #8.  Length would be 1/2" or 3/4".  Using screws a bit longer than necessary in this location wouldn't adversely affect anything.
>
> --Peter
>
>> On 2021-12-07, at 01:40:55 EST, Reuben Mezrich wrote:
>>
>> If I might ask two more questions....
>> What kind and size block is used at the end of the mast to turn the outhaul line
>> back to the mast?
>> If screws are used to hold it....what size?
>> Thanks
>> --Reuben
>> Reuben Mezrich
>> Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Back Bay, Boston
>> Cell: 410-499-8922
>>
>>
>>
>


------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2021 17:19:54 -0500
From: Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] RHODES 22 CAPS
Message-ID: <548DFB3F-700A-492A-890C-20843D1658DF at gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=us-ascii

I am late to the party but would like one.  What do I need to do?

Thanks,

Frank Goldsmith
S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
Fairview, NC
Lake Keowee, SC

> On Dec 7, 2021, at 2:43 PM, <Joedempsey at hughes.net> <Joedempsey at hughes.net> wrote:
>
> A bunch of you guys have just ordered Rhodes 22 caps so I'm getting ready to
> place an order. If you wish to add to the order, get your request in to me
> now. It will speed up your delivery. Offline at joedempsey at hughes.net
> <mailto:joedempsey at hughes.net> .  Hope everyone likes them.
>



------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2021 17:09:48 -0600
From: Jesse Shumaker <jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com>
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Update on IMF outhaul/furling running
        rigging changes made over the winter
Message-ID:
        <CAMc-3foN4Ez1kjjNTQMx-o3A0-HtxsgdhMZk4TsL5+KtHGvWLA at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Peter, thanks for getting back to Rueben with the details. I used the same
block that you mentioned.  It's been busy at work recently, hence my slow
responses.  Rueben, you're probably already tracking on this, but I had to
tap the threads in the boom for the screws on the cheek block.

Jesse

On Tue, Dec 7, 2021 at 3:38 PM Reuben Mezrich <reuben.mezrich at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Thanks again
>
> Reuben Mezrich
> Cell: 410-499-8922
>
> > On Dec 7, 2021, at 4:11 PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?Reuben,
> >
> > The block at the end of the boom is a cheek block.  I'm pretty sure the
> specific model is a Ronstan 20mm (Ronstan model #RF20151, Defender item
> #614283).  I don't recall the size of the screws used.  I'd guess #6, but
> it might have been #8.  Length would be 1/2" or 3/4".  Using screws a bit
> longer than necessary in this location wouldn't adversely affect anything.
> >
> > --Peter
> >
> >> On 2021-12-07, at 01:40:55 EST, Reuben Mezrich wrote:
> >>
> >> If I might ask two more questions....
> >> What kind and size block is used at the end of the mast to turn the
> outhaul line
> >> back to the mast?
> >> If screws are used to hold it....what size?
> >> Thanks
> >> --Reuben
> >> Reuben Mezrich
> >> Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Back Bay, Boston
> >> Cell: 410-499-8922
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>

------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2021 18:49:55 -0500
From: Reuben Mezrich <reuben.mezrich at gmail.com>
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Update on IMF outhaul/furling running
        rigging changes made over the winter
Message-ID: <2DF2C374-A7D3-4455-8F47-06CEDA42CD3D at gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Glad you mentioned this? I was just going to use sheet mettal screws

Reuben Mezrich
Cell: 410-499-8922

> On Dec 7, 2021, at 6:10 PM, Jesse Shumaker <jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?Peter, thanks for getting back to Rueben with the details. I used the same
> block that you mentioned.  It's been busy at work recently, hence my slow
> responses.  Rueben, you're probably already tracking on this, but I had to
> tap the threads in the boom for the screws on the cheek block.
>
> Jesse
>
>> On Tue, Dec 7, 2021 at 3:38 PM Reuben Mezrich <reuben.mezrich at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks again
>>
>> Reuben Mezrich
>> Cell: 410-499-8922
>>
>>>> On Dec 7, 2021, at 4:11 PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> ?Reuben,
>>>
>>> The block at the end of the boom is a cheek block.  I'm pretty sure the
>> specific model is a Ronstan 20mm (Ronstan model #RF20151, Defender item
>> #614283).  I don't recall the size of the screws used.  I'd guess #6, but
>> it might have been #8.  Length would be 1/2" or 3/4".  Using screws a bit
>> longer than necessary in this location wouldn't adversely affect anything.
>>>
>>> --Peter
>>>
>>>> On 2021-12-07, at 01:40:55 EST, Reuben Mezrich wrote:
>>>>
>>>> If I might ask two more questions....
>>>> What kind and size block is used at the end of the mast to turn the
>> outhaul line
>>>> back to the mast?
>>>> If screws are used to hold it....what size?
>>>> Thanks
>>>> --Reuben
>>>> Reuben Mezrich
>>>> Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Back Bay, Boston
>>>> Cell: 410-499-8922
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>


------------------------------

Message: 11
Date: Tue, 07 Dec 2021 18:09:48 -0800
From: Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Update on IMF outhaul/furling running
        rigging changes made over the winter
Message-ID: <E1mumOy-00BwRE-FF at s152.servername.online>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

I'm pretty sure that's what I did, or I might have even used wood screws.

I probably got the idea that this would be OK because every piece of hardware attached to the mast or boom that was put in place by General Boats that I have removed was attached by screws, not bolts. I can identify with the notion that because tapping threads into the boom is more work, it must be the better solution, but I'm not at all certain that's actually true.

Also, I don't know if it's significant that in this case the forces applied to the screws (or bolts) would be sheer, not tension (I think I'm using those terms correctly).

Perhaps Roger would care to comment.

--Peter

> On 2021-12-07, at 18:49:55 EST, Reuben Mezrich wrote:
>
> Glad you mentioned this? I was just going to use sheet mettal screws
>
> Reuben Mezrich
> Cell: 410-499-8922
>
>



------------------------------

Message: 12
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2021 20:17:53 -0600
From: Jesse Shumaker <jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com>
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Update on IMF outhaul/furling running
        rigging changes made over the winter
Message-ID:
        <CAMc-3fop8Dr=-5PtVrvumma-qcN0JP3XRgd-OMPcFp35D9a0Xg at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I decided to tap the threads because of my experience the prior summer when
I added more small cleats to the bottom of the boom.  That time I drilled
pilot holes and used stainless sheet metal screws but it was hard to avoid
stripping them.  That inspired me to get a tap and die set (an excuse for
more tools!) and give that a try.  I may have done more work than
necessary, which often seems to be the case :)

On Tue, Dec 7, 2021, 8:09 PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

> I'm pretty sure that's what I did, or I might have even used wood screws.
>
> I probably got the idea that this would be OK because every piece of
> hardware attached to the mast or boom that was put in place by General
> Boats that I have removed was attached by screws, not bolts. I can identify
> with the notion that because tapping threads into the boom is more work, it
> must be the better solution, but I'm not at all certain that's actually
> true.
>
> Also, I don't know if it's significant that in this case the forces
> applied to the screws (or bolts) would be sheer, not tension (I think I'm
> using those terms correctly).
>
> Perhaps Roger would care to comment.
>
> --Peter
>
> > On 2021-12-07, at 18:49:55 EST, Reuben Mezrich wrote:
> >
> > Glad you mentioned this? I was just going to use sheet mettal screws
> >
> > Reuben Mezrich
> > Cell: 410-499-8922
> >
> >
>
>

------------------------------

Message: 13
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2021 07:05:38 -0500
From: Reuben Mezrich <reuben.mezrich at gmail.com>
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Update on IMF outhaul/furling running
        rigging changes made over the winter
Message-ID:
        <CAHrO9msx2PtF5jeFHuzPDMYAgi8W8Bx4h1gWLr=9AKitn_syYg at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I've taken out, and replaced, a few screws on the boom and they look like
simple sheet metal screws (i.e. threads all the way to the head). Having
few mechanical skills and with a high degree of laziness I"m going to go
with metal screws, probably the "self-tapping" variety. I'll report on the
outcome. Probably do the work next week since our club is racing this week
(its good to be in Florida!)
--Reuben
Reuben Mezrich
Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Back Bay, Boston
Cell: 410-499-8922


On Tue, Dec 7, 2021 at 9:18 PM Jesse Shumaker <
jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote:

> I decided to tap the threads because of my experience the prior summer when
> I added more small cleats to the bottom of the boom.  That time I drilled
> pilot holes and used stainless sheet metal screws but it was hard to avoid
> stripping them.  That inspired me to get a tap and die set (an excuse for
> more tools!) and give that a try.  I may have done more work than
> necessary, which often seems to be the case :)
>
> On Tue, Dec 7, 2021, 8:09 PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>
> > I'm pretty sure that's what I did, or I might have even used wood screws.
> >
> > I probably got the idea that this would be OK because every piece of
> > hardware attached to the mast or boom that was put in place by General
> > Boats that I have removed was attached by screws, not bolts. I can
> identify
> > with the notion that because tapping threads into the boom is more work,
> it
> > must be the better solution, but I'm not at all certain that's actually
> > true.
> >
> > Also, I don't know if it's significant that in this case the forces
> > applied to the screws (or bolts) would be sheer, not tension (I think I'm
> > using those terms correctly).
> >
> > Perhaps Roger would care to comment.
> >
> > --Peter
> >
> > > On 2021-12-07, at 18:49:55 EST, Reuben Mezrich wrote:
> > >
> > > Glad you mentioned this? I was just going to use sheet mettal screws
> > >
> > > Reuben Mezrich
> > > Cell: 410-499-8922
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>

------------------------------

Message: 14
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2021 06:29:38 -0600
From: Jesse Shumaker <jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com>
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Update on IMF outhaul/furling running
        rigging changes made over the winter
Message-ID:
        <CAMc-3fo14w5+Wc4L3Zm4BZ06xu-rmAYNBMyXbsacm8OsM5XfRA at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Good luck at the races!

On Wed, Dec 8, 2021 at 6:06 AM Reuben Mezrich <reuben.mezrich at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I've taken out, and replaced, a few screws on the boom and they look like
> simple sheet metal screws (i.e. threads all the way to the head). Having
> few mechanical skills and with a high degree of laziness I"m going to go
> with metal screws, probably the "self-tapping" variety. I'll report on the
> outcome. Probably do the work next week since our club is racing this week
> (its good to be in Florida!)
> --Reuben
> Reuben Mezrich
> Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Back Bay, Boston
> Cell: 410-499-8922
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 7, 2021 at 9:18 PM Jesse Shumaker <
> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I decided to tap the threads because of my experience the prior summer
> when
> > I added more small cleats to the bottom of the boom.  That time I drilled
> > pilot holes and used stainless sheet metal screws but it was hard to
> avoid
> > stripping them.  That inspired me to get a tap and die set (an excuse for
> > more tools!) and give that a try.  I may have done more work than
> > necessary, which often seems to be the case :)
> >
> > On Tue, Dec 7, 2021, 8:09 PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > > I'm pretty sure that's what I did, or I might have even used wood
> screws.
> > >
> > > I probably got the idea that this would be OK because every piece of
> > > hardware attached to the mast or boom that was put in place by General
> > > Boats that I have removed was attached by screws, not bolts. I can
> > identify
> > > with the notion that because tapping threads into the boom is more
> work,
> > it
> > > must be the better solution, but I'm not at all certain that's actually
> > > true.
> > >
> > > Also, I don't know if it's significant that in this case the forces
> > > applied to the screws (or bolts) would be sheer, not tension (I think
> I'm
> > > using those terms correctly).
> > >
> > > Perhaps Roger would care to comment.
> > >
> > > --Peter
> > >
> > > > On 2021-12-07, at 18:49:55 EST, Reuben Mezrich wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Glad you mentioned this? I was just going to use sheet mettal screws
> > > >
> > > > Reuben Mezrich
> > > > Cell: 410-499-8922
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>

------------------------------

Message: 15
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2021 01:07:01 +0000
From: Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Update on IMF outhaul/furling running
        rigging changes made over the winter
Message-ID: <38C6BBB6-6A7C-4C08-A850-B39959EFA308 at gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Rivets are often a good option as well.

Michael McKay
(630) 209-2054 (m)

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 7, 2021, at 11:50 PM, Reuben Mezrich <reuben.mezrich at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?Glad you mentioned this? I was just going to use sheet mettal screws
>
> Reuben Mezrich
> Cell: 410-499-8922
>
>> On Dec 7, 2021, at 6:10 PM, Jesse Shumaker <jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> ?Peter, thanks for getting back to Rueben with the details. I used the same
>> block that you mentioned.  It's been busy at work recently, hence my slow
>> responses.  Rueben, you're probably already tracking on this, but I had to
>> tap the threads in the boom for the screws on the cheek block.
>>
>> Jesse
>>
>>> On Tue, Dec 7, 2021 at 3:38 PM Reuben Mezrich <reuben.mezrich at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks again
>>>
>>> Reuben Mezrich
>>> Cell: 410-499-8922
>>>
>>>>>> On Dec 7, 2021, at 4:11 PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> ?Reuben,
>>>>>
>>>>> The block at the end of the boom is a cheek block.  I'm pretty sure the
>>> specific model is a Ronstan 20mm (Ronstan model #RF20151, Defender item
>>> #614283).  I don't recall the size of the screws used.  I'd guess #6, but
>>> it might have been #8.  Length would be 1/2" or 3/4".  Using screws a bit
>>> longer than necessary in this location wouldn't adversely affect anything.
>>>>
>>>> --Peter
>>>>
>>>>> On 2021-12-07, at 01:40:55 EST, Reuben Mezrich wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> If I might ask two more questions....
>>>>> What kind and size block is used at the end of the mast to turn the
>>> outhaul line
>>>>> back to the mast?
>>>>> If screws are used to hold it....what size?
>>>>> Thanks
>>>>> --Reuben
>>>>> Reuben Mezrich
>>>>> Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Back Bay, Boston
>>>>> Cell: 410-499-8922
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>


------------------------------

Message: 16
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2021 18:59:52 -0500
From: Mark Whipple <mwhipple59 at gmail.com>
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Progress
Message-ID:
        <CA+WP5ASumjw6f6kM8Gukvh=Ms_AGOFbuXChw-gNCXYhJq6Ryag at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Today was a great day for my 2001 R22, Luna Mia. Yesterday wasn't bad,
either.

Today I completely removed the wheel pedestal and all of the associated
hardware. Yesterday the saildrive engine came out. Next may be the Hoyt
boom for the self-tending jib, but that may have to wait a bit. I need to
get a few other things done before trailering my boat from Boston up to
central Maine to be painted.

All three of these things (saildrive, wheel and self-tending jib) seemed
kind of cool and unique when I bought the boat. But after sailing it a bit
I realized that none of them fit with the kind of boat I wanted and the way
I like to sail. The big issue with the saildrive is maintenance, since the
manufacturer in Sweden is out of business.

If anyone is interested in any of the three (saildrive, wheel and Hoyt
boom) send me a direct message. I'm not really interested in shipping, but
maybe something could be worked out. The Hoyt boom would be the most
straightforward to install, followed by the wheel pedestal (which comes
with engine controls and two wheels) and lastly the saildrive, which would
be a major project. I'm expecting the later will appeal to those who have a
Yamaha 15hp and could use the parts.

Making progress on making the boat my own!

Mark

Boston, MA

2000 R22 *Luna Mia*
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------------------------------

Message: 17
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2021 20:37:22 -0500
From: Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mounting an electric motor
Message-ID: <D10CE816-2777-4960-B11D-28084DC378E5 at gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=utf-8

Listmates,

For any of you who have switched to an electric motor, like a Torqueedo, did you mount it on the same motor mount as your gasoline motor?  I have the GB motor mount with the pulleys for mechanical advantage, but it is very stiff to operate even with the relatively heavy 8 HP Tohatsu mounted, and I?m concerned that a Torqueedo would not have enough weight to let it be lowered.  I?d welcome any input.

Thanks,

Frank

Frank Goldsmith
S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
Fairview, NC
Lake Keowee, SC


------------------------------

Message: 18
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2021 18:11:17 -0800
From: Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Progress
Message-ID: <E1mxJlF-008wxd-6p at s152.servername.online>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

Mark,

Congratulations. I certainly agree that none of those items belong on a Rhodes 22.

I'm particularly puzzled by the wheel.  From the pictures, it looks like there wasn't room to either stand or sit behind it.

--Peter

> On 2021-12-14, at 18:59:52 EST, Mark Whipple wrote:
>
> Today was a great day for my 2001 R22, Luna Mia. Yesterday wasn't bad, either.
>
> Today I completely removed the wheel pedestal and all of the associated
> hardware. Yesterday the saildrive engine came out. Next may be the Hoyt boom for
> the self-tending jib, but that may have to wait a bit. I need to get a few other
> things done before trailering my boat from Boston up to central Maine to be
> painted.
>
> All three of these things (saildrive, wheel and self-tending jib) seemed kind of
> cool and unique when I bought the boat. But after sailing it a bit I realized
> that none of them fit with the kind of boat I wanted and the way I like to sail.
> The big issue with the saildrive is maintenance, since the manufacturer in
> Sweden is out of business.
>
> If anyone is interested in any of the three (saildrive, wheel and Hoyt boom)
> send me a direct message. I'm not really interested in shipping, but maybe
> something could be worked out. The Hoyt boom would be the most straightforward
> to install, followed by the wheel pedestal (which comes with engine controls and
> two wheels) and lastly the saildrive, which would be a major project. I'm
> expecting the later will appeal to those who have a Yamaha 15hp and could use
> the parts.
>
> Making progress on making the boat my own!
>
> Mark
>
> Boston, MA
>
> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia*
>
> <a
> href="https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20211214%2Fbc221164%2Fattachment.jpg&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cfaf9ed5255864e8ba03108d9bfcd83c0%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637751711680004484%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000&sdata=eAhH7W5LwykGAV7Me4xL4XuTDtiikEZNHtZqrUnlOS8%3D&reserved=0"
> target="_blank">20211113_120958.jpg</a>
>
> <a
> href="https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20211214%2Fbc221164%2Fattachment-0001.jpg&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cfaf9ed5255864e8ba03108d9bfcd83c0%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637751711680004484%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000&sdata=ZjGNGC93GAvMuBk7%2BX7TWYmFd%2BY6GGcfxBxqOpru%2FVk%3D&reserved=0"
> target="_blank">20211113_121058.jpg</a>
>
> <a
> href="https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20211214%2Fbc221164%2Fattachment-0002.jpg&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cfaf9ed5255864e8ba03108d9bfcd83c0%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637751711680004484%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000&sdata=CeEpFQ2T%2FCVLNV34S5Uvus1FkNfLkZJ8VZAUZxqyBq0%3D&reserved=0"
> target="_blank">20211213_134325.jpg</a>
>
> <a
> href="https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20211214%2Fbc221164%2Fattachment-0003.jpg&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cfaf9ed5255864e8ba03108d9bfcd83c0%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637751711680004484%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000&sdata=Je6LRELphf0U8aGMkhE%2Fgh6KTya%2BvSTGgd7f5isiFrc%3D&reserved=0"
> target="_blank">20211213_135557.jpg</a>
>



------------------------------

Message: 19
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2021 18:21:05 -0800
From: Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mounting an electric motor
Message-ID: <E1mxJuj-0090XH-PD at s152.servername.online>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

Frank,

I don't have an electric motor, and my motor lift system was originally winch powered, not line and pulley.  But, the experience with the system I have suggests that there is no inherent reason that it should be too stiff to work with a lighter motor.

I'd say the path of least resistance would be to figure out why the existing system doesn't operate more smoothly, and address those issues.  Creating some new raising/lowering mechanism would be a big project.

--Peter

> On 2021-12-14, at 20:37:22 EST, Frank Goldsmith wrote:
>
> Listmates,
>
> For any of you who have switched to an electric motor, like a Torqueedo, did you
> mount it on the same motor mount as your gasoline motor?  I have the GB motor
> mount with the pulleys for mechanical advantage, but it is very stiff to operate
> even with the relatively heavy 8 HP Tohatsu mounted, and I?m concerned that a
> Torqueedo would not have enough weight to let it be lowered.  I?d welcome any
> input.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Frank
>
> Frank Goldsmith
> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
> Fairview, NC
> Lake Keowee, SC
>



------------------------------

Message: 20
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2021 22:33:34 -0500
From: Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mounting an electric motor
Message-ID: <199E1694-D4A9-49B1-9A7C-DCD62F1004F8 at gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=utf-8

Peter,

Thanks.  I?m sure you?re right.  My motor mount surely needs some attention, as I don?t think it used to be that hard to operate.  I?ve tried spraying some lubricant on places where I thought it needed it, but I may have to take off the motor and examine it more closely to see what?s going on.  I really don?t want to get involved in replacing the mount with a different kind of system.

Best,

Frank

> On Dec 14, 2021, at 9:21 PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>
> Frank,
>
> I don't have an electric motor, and my motor lift system was originally winch powered, not line and pulley.  But, the experience with the system I have suggests that there is no inherent reason that it should be too stiff to work with a lighter motor.
>
> I'd say the path of least resistance would be to figure out why the existing system doesn't operate more smoothly, and address those issues.  Creating some new raising/lowering mechanism would be a big project.
>
> --Peter
>
>> On 2021-12-14, at 20:37:22 EST, Frank Goldsmith wrote:
>>
>> Listmates,
>>
>> For any of you who have switched to an electric motor, like a Torqueedo, did you
>> mount it on the same motor mount as your gasoline motor?  I have the GB motor
>> mount with the pulleys for mechanical advantage, but it is very stiff to operate
>> even with the relatively heavy 8 HP Tohatsu mounted, and I?m concerned that a
>> Torqueedo would not have enough weight to let it be lowered.  I?d welcome any
>> input.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Frank
>>
>> Frank Goldsmith
>> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
>> Fairview, NC
>> Lake Keowee, SC
>>
>



------------------------------

Message: 21
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2021 22:04:13 -0800
From: Shawn Boles <shawn.sustain at gmail.com>
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mounting an electric motor
Message-ID:
        <CAMzGxuN=16iy=6ukdg+ZOJb+GSdLSxBBuhhQWaabyUhT19diUg at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Frank:

I have used the original rig for 10 years with my Torqeedo 1003 long-shaft.
Occasionally I have to jiggle it a little when lowering.

Cheers,
Shawn
s/v Sweet Baboo

On Tue, Dec 14, 2021, 5:37 PM Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Listmates,
>
> For any of you who have switched to an electric motor, like a Torqueedo,
> did you mount it on the same motor mount as your gasoline motor?  I have
> the GB motor mount with the pulleys for mechanical advantage, but it is
> very stiff to operate even with the relatively heavy 8 HP Tohatsu mounted,
> and I?m concerned that a Torqueedo would not have enough weight to let it
> be lowered.  I?d welcome any input.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Frank
>
> Frank Goldsmith
> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
> Fairview, NC
> Lake Keowee, SC
>

------------------------------

Message: 22
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2021 06:24:02 -0500
From: Reuben Mezrich <reuben.mezrich at gmail.com>
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Progress
Message-ID:
        <CAHrO9msRj+UkzLzzShGRT=nJWXBfGx1Cuiebd1TTQ8F9U2k-JA at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Wow!, what a lot of work....well done!
--Reuben
Reuben Mezrich
Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Back Bay, Boston
Cell: 410-499-8922


On Tue, Dec 14, 2021 at 9:11 PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

> Mark,
>
> Congratulations. I certainly agree that none of those items belong on a
> Rhodes 22.
>
> I'm particularly puzzled by the wheel.  From the pictures, it looks like
> there wasn't room to either stand or sit behind it.
>
> --Peter
>
> > On 2021-12-14, at 18:59:52 EST, Mark Whipple wrote:
> >
> > Today was a great day for my 2001 R22, Luna Mia. Yesterday wasn't bad,
> either.
> >
> > Today I completely removed the wheel pedestal and all of the associated
> > hardware. Yesterday the saildrive engine came out. Next may be the Hoyt
> boom for
> > the self-tending jib, but that may have to wait a bit. I need to get a
> few other
> > things done before trailering my boat from Boston up to central Maine to
> be
> > painted.
> >
> > All three of these things (saildrive, wheel and self-tending jib) seemed
> kind of
> > cool and unique when I bought the boat. But after sailing it a bit I
> realized
> > that none of them fit with the kind of boat I wanted and the way I like
> to sail.
> > The big issue with the saildrive is maintenance, since the manufacturer
> in
> > Sweden is out of business.
> >
> > If anyone is interested in any of the three (saildrive, wheel and Hoyt
> boom)
> > send me a direct message. I'm not really interested in shipping, but
> maybe
> > something could be worked out. The Hoyt boom would be the most
> straightforward
> > to install, followed by the wheel pedestal (which comes with engine
> controls and
> > two wheels) and lastly the saildrive, which would be a major project.
> I'm
> > expecting the later will appeal to those who have a Yamaha 15hp and
> could use
> > the parts.
> >
> > Making progress on making the boat my own!
> >
> > Mark
> >
> > Boston, MA
> >
> > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia*
> >
> > <a
> > href="
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20211214%2Fbc221164%2Fattachment.jpg&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cfaf9ed5255864e8ba03108d9bfcd83c0%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637751711680004484%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000&sdata=eAhH7W5LwykGAV7Me4xL4XuTDtiikEZNHtZqrUnlOS8%3D&reserved=0"
>
> > target="_blank">20211113_120958.jpg</a>
> >
> > <a
> > href="
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20211214%2Fbc221164%2Fattachment-0001.jpg&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cfaf9ed5255864e8ba03108d9bfcd83c0%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637751711680004484%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000&sdata=ZjGNGC93GAvMuBk7%2BX7TWYmFd%2BY6GGcfxBxqOpru%2FVk%3D&reserved=0"
>
> > target="_blank">20211113_121058.jpg</a>
> >
> > <a
> > href="
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20211214%2Fbc221164%2Fattachment-0002.jpg&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cfaf9ed5255864e8ba03108d9bfcd83c0%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637751711680004484%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000&sdata=CeEpFQ2T%2FCVLNV34S5Uvus1FkNfLkZJ8VZAUZxqyBq0%3D&reserved=0"
>
> > target="_blank">20211213_134325.jpg</a>
> >
> > <a
> > href="
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20211214%2Fbc221164%2Fattachment-0003.jpg&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cfaf9ed5255864e8ba03108d9bfcd83c0%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637751711680004484%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000&sdata=Je6LRELphf0U8aGMkhE%2Fgh6KTya%2BvSTGgd7f5isiFrc%3D&reserved=0"
>
> > target="_blank">20211213_135557.jpg</a>
> >
>
>

------------------------------

Message: 23
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2021 06:27:26 -0500
From: Reuben Mezrich <reuben.mezrich at gmail.com>
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mounting an electric motor
Message-ID:
        <CAHrO9mt8jztqc9tGwC-ZHJwAoh2Wsn7ii=Xi3Mp3Sa4aPkyF6Q at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Frank
I put an ePropulsion Nav 3 on the motor mount with the winch and it works
fine. The motor weighs about 55 lbs which is less than most gas powered
engines. The e80 battery is under the foot of the forward  V berth. Stan
replaced the 15 gallon water tank with a 5 gallon tank in it fits fine.
--Reuben
Reuben Mezrich
Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Back Bay, Boston
Cell: 410-499-8922


On Tue, Dec 14, 2021 at 8:37 PM Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Listmates,
>
> For any of you who have switched to an electric motor, like a Torqueedo,
> did you mount it on the same motor mount as your gasoline motor?  I have
> the GB motor mount with the pulleys for mechanical advantage, but it is
> very stiff to operate even with the relatively heavy 8 HP Tohatsu mounted,
> and I?m concerned that a Torqueedo would not have enough weight to let it
> be lowered.  I?d welcome any input.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Frank
>
> Frank Goldsmith
> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
> Fairview, NC
> Lake Keowee, SC
>

------------------------------

Message: 24
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2021 07:38:37 -0500
From: Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mounting an electric motor
Message-ID: <6EA04834-DAA8-498A-87A3-318716DC341B at gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=utf-8

Thanks, Shawn and Reuben, for your replies.  That?s encouraging to hear.  Sounds like I first just need to make sure my mount operates freely (both for the motor I have and the one I am pondering getting).

Frank

> On Dec 15, 2021, at 1:04 AM, Shawn Boles <shawn.sustain at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Frank:
>
> I have used the original rig for 10 years with my Torqeedo 1003 long-shaft.
> Occasionally I have to jiggle it a little when lowering.
>
> Cheers,
> Shawn
> s/v Sweet Baboo
>
> On Tue, Dec 14, 2021, 5:37 PM Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Listmates,
>>
>> For any of you who have switched to an electric motor, like a Torqueedo,
>> did you mount it on the same motor mount as your gasoline motor?  I have
>> the GB motor mount with the pulleys for mechanical advantage, but it is
>> very stiff to operate even with the relatively heavy 8 HP Tohatsu mounted,
>> and I?m concerned that a Torqueedo would not have enough weight to let it
>> be lowered.  I?d welcome any input.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Frank
>>
>> Frank Goldsmith
>> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
>> Fairview, NC
>> Lake Keowee, SC
>>



------------------------------

Message: 25
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2021 13:19:20 +0000
From: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mounting an electric motor
Message-ID:
        <CH2PR02MB692013A3386396C4808CC6EC80769 at CH2PR02MB6920.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Frank,

My guess is the control line that runs thru all those blocks on the motor mount is saturated with salt, algae, or other environmental crud and it?s very stiff.  Try washing it, hot, HD cycle with a good laundry detergent, no bleach, and fabric softener.  After washing, if the line is still stiff, you may need to soak it in a bucket full of fabric softener solution.  While the control line is out, pressure wash the blocks on the motor mount and make sure they spin freely.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 15, 2021, at 7:38 AM, Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?Thanks, Shawn and Reuben, for your replies.  That?s encouraging to hear.  Sounds like I first just need to make sure my mount operates freely (both for the motor I have and the one I am pondering getting).
>
> Frank
>
>> On Dec 15, 2021, at 1:04 AM, Shawn Boles <shawn.sustain at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Frank:
>>
>> I have used the original rig for 10 years with my Torqeedo 1003 long-shaft.
>> Occasionally I have to jiggle it a little when lowering.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Shawn
>> s/v Sweet Baboo
>>
>>> On Tue, Dec 14, 2021, 5:37 PM Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Listmates,
>>>
>>> For any of you who have switched to an electric motor, like a Torqueedo,
>>> did you mount it on the same motor mount as your gasoline motor?  I have
>>> the GB motor mount with the pulleys for mechanical advantage, but it is
>>> very stiff to operate even with the relatively heavy 8 HP Tohatsu mounted,
>>> and I?m concerned that a Torqueedo would not have enough weight to let it
>>> be lowered.  I?d welcome any input.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Frank
>>>
>>> Frank Goldsmith
>>> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
>>> Fairview, NC
>>> Lake Keowee, SC
>>>
>

------------------------------

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------------------------------

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